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67 232 Auto 3rd gear issue

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ramblinrev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 7:45am
It's a 67. It has the modulator and the electric kickdown.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 8:42pm
Frank,
Actually to be more accurate, the kickdown switch is not on the engine but it IS on the throttle linkage firewall mounted support bracket in the engine compartment. Just don;t want someone who's not that knowledgeable to know what the switch looks like to be looking on the engine itself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad2192 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/22/2019 at 6:47pm
Thank you very much everyone for your responses, I just purchased a modulator from RockAuto and I'm sure I need to do a rear main seal since the engine is moister than an oyster. Hopefully this will resolve my high rpm travels! You guys never fail to resolve my issues, next up is figuring out where the heck I'll find a new vacuum wiper motor since I drove to work like Ace Ventura style. But seriously, you guys are the best.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnagorka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/22/2019 at 6:52pm
You can have the vacuum motor rebuilt by any number of vendors- don't sweat it. Just don't drive your car when it's raining Tongue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/22/2019 at 9:57pm
Do some Internet searching to find your nearest AMC club?

'AMO' website is a good place to start.

Your local club members should be able to guide you to an actual AMC mechanic.

Of course it will be good to buy a '67 American Motors Technical Service Manual for you to learn more about your car's mechanical component parts. -the book will pay for itself when you make your first repair.

For '67 232 inline six, your transmission is a '67 American Motors 'Shift Command' aluminum case automatic.

(basically all the non-AMCer 'transmission guys' call it a Borg Warner Model 35... which is technically incorrect; all those later models with n0 downshift cable but with electric kick down instead are Models #41 through 44)

FYI, Volvo used this same automatic transmission in their cars through '77 and those cars earned an excellent reputation for durability.

-The advice the other man gave you is straight out of 'the book':

'No upshift from 2nd to 3rd' = 1) check downshift switch and solenoid 2) & 'stuck governor'

You will need to have your rear main seal replaced if that's where the leak really is coming from... it could be from multiple sources. An oil leak at the valve cover makes the whole engine look like 'it's leaking like a sieve'... the leaks won't fix themselves, they will only get worse = the car needs repairs if you wanna keep driving it.

If you had your own Technical Service Manual, you'd realize how difficult it will be to change the rear main seal = that's not an easy job.

Again, this is why I'd recommend you seek a local mechanic through your nearest AMC club.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 8:27am
In 67 the transmission is an M37.

I've heard complaints of oil coming out the rear main seal before. The only thing I could suggest is replace the seal if it is bad and make sure the vent works. There is a hole between the front case and tail section so I don't know how oil could accumulate in the tail housing.

Band adjustment with the pan off is to use a 1/4" spacer and tighten adjustment screw to 9 in. lbs., then tighten lock nut.
Band adjustment from outside case up high on RH side is tighten adjusting screw to 9 ft. lbs., back off 3/4 turn and tighten lock nut. I think it is important that the bands are adjusted correctly. I saw in one transmission where the servo piston with the seal had cocked sideways and the only way I could see that happening is if it were way out of adjustment.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad2192 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 11:05am
Originally posted by amcenthusiast amcenthusiast wrote:

Do some Internet searching to find your nearest AMC club?

'AMO' website is a good place to start.

Your local club members should be able to guide you to an actual AMC mechanic.

Of course it will be good to buy a '67 American Motors Technical Service Manual for you to learn more about your car's mechanical component parts. -the book will pay for itself when you make your first repair.

For '67 232 inline six, your transmission is a '67 American Motors 'Shift Command' aluminum case automatic.

(basically all the non-AMCer 'transmission guys' call it a Borg Warner Model 35... which is technically incorrect; all those later models with n0 downshift cable but with electric kick down instead are Models #41 through 44)

FYI, Volvo used this same automatic transmission in their cars through '77 and those cars earned an excellent reputation for durability.

-The advice the other man gave you is straight out of 'the book':

'No upshift from 2nd to 3rd' = 1) check downshift switch and solenoid 2) & 'stuck governor'

You will need to have your rear main seal replaced if that's where the leak really is coming from... it could be from multiple sources. An oil leak at the valve cover makes the whole engine look like 'it's leaking like a sieve'... the leaks won't fix themselves, they will only get worse = the car needs repairs if you wanna keep driving it.

If you had your own Technical Service Manual, you'd realize how difficult it will be to change the rear main seal = that's not an easy job.

Again, this is why I'd recommend you seek a local mechanic through your nearest AMC club.

Thank you, I have all of the original material from the first owner, including the Owner's Manual (with original owners card) and the magazine she picked the car from all in mint condition. I know how much of a PIA the seal is but I do all my own work and these engines are relatively simple in design. The kickdown seems to be fine and I have the modulator coming in in a few days. I really appreciate your help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad2192 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 11:27am
Originally posted by vinny vinny wrote:

In 67 the transmission is an M37.

I've heard complaints of oil coming out the rear main seal before. The only thing I could suggest is replace the seal if it is bad and make sure the vent works. There is a hole between the front case and tail section so I don't know how oil could accumulate in the tail housing.

Band adjustment with the pan off is to use a 1/4" spacer and tighten adjustment screw to 9 in. lbs., then tighten lock nut.
Band adjustment from outside case up high on RH side is tighten adjusting screw to 9 ft. lbs., back off 3/4 turn and tighten lock nut. I think it is important that the bands are adjusted correctly. I saw in one transmission where the servo piston with the seal had cocked sideways and the only way I could see that happening is if it were way out of adjustment.  

Thank you for that info!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad2192 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 1:53pm
So, it ended up being a combination of both the modulator AND the kickdown switch, I just replaced the modulator and it was still shifting bad, I then removed the kickdown switch wires again and it's shifting beautifully, thank you very much for the help. And, if anyone is having the same issue I suggest the  https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/american+motors,1967,rebel,3.8l+232cid+l6,1318205,transmission-automatic,governor+/+modulator,8500 - TRANSMAXX 206160 for the modulator! Again, I am extremely grateful for all of your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 6:49pm
You'll want to fix or replace the kickdown switch. As for the modulator,it MAY need adjustment to get the transmission upshift points in the proper range.Refer to the shop manual for the speed ranges but typically at light throttle the shift from first to second should be between 6 and 10 mph and from second to third about 17 and 20 mph. At moderate throttle 1-2 should fall in the 20 mph range and 2-3 shift around 28-32. Shift points move up with throttle position. The larger the throttle opening ( gas pedal depression )the higher the shift points. The kick down switch goes into effect at wide open throttle and raises the shift points further, so you'll want to replace or fix the kichdown switch to keep this function.   
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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