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'66 Classic - defective regulator

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mr-bug View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mr-bug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: '66 Classic - defective regulator
    Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 8:54pm
 
It was working fine until Saturday - I have driven it over 1,000 miles before that with no problem.  Now at idle it is charging over 16 volts and cooking the battery.  Can I just go to the parts store and order a new one?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 9:52pm
That sort, yes - parts stores will have generic replacements that would work fine. (or can GET them, say a "Standard" brand replacement.)
I may have one as well, but for a fast cheap fix, they would.
I'm curious - do you have a better photo of the back-side of the alternator? A larger one?
 
Do two things first - make sure the connections where it plugs in are really clean - use a bit of fine sandpaper on the bullet connectors if needed.
Make sure that the orange wire that connects to the alternator is clean where it connects, not loose, etc. - good clean connection. The regulator senses from that.
Give it another go after checking and cleaning all connections.
And if it's still a problem, in all liklihood, regulator.
 
NAPA has 'em for 69 bucks, let me look deeper - that's a bunch of money.......


Edited by billd - Nov/18/2010 at 9:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 10:00pm
O'Reilly Auto - BWD brand, number R290  for 59.99
If all else fails, I will search my "stuff".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Freecat1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 10:18pm
billd   Would that be the same for my 66 American, 290 V/8?  Thanks
66 American 440 Wagon Factory "C" Code 290 V/8 A/C P/B P/S Make Out Seats
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 10:38pm
it should be, yes.............   66/67/68 used the Motorola R2AM1 regulator type on the Motorola systyems.
 
Now if that's the AM or prestolite system (rare) then it would use a Prestolite VSC62436 regulator. However, the TSMs all show the wiring as identical.
 
The 35 amp motorola and 40 amp prestolite alternator have 1 isolation diode in the heat sink, the motorola 40 amp has 2 isolation diodes in the heat sink


Edited by billd - Nov/18/2010 at 10:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ihcdiamondreo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 10:44pm
Rockauto.com
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # VR112   

Choose: [Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining) ($24.79)[Regular Inventory] ($46.79)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mr-bug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2010 at 11:08pm
I don't see any markings on it, so I don't know if it is original or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 7:20am
That's not a 1966 alternator - OR it is and someone left off the isolation diode.

The 1966 regulator with a 1971+ alternator will combine to overcharge the battery by 1 volt.
The isolation diode drops charging voltage by roughly 1 volt.................. even with a new regulator, it will over-charge by a volt.
That's either a reman, or someone painted it......... no tag either.

OK, two possibilities on the alternator - it's a 1966 and someone removed the isolation diode, boosting the charging voltage by 1 volt, or it's a 1971 or later, I can't tell without looking inside the rear and seeing if it's got the diode trio inside.
The field or brush plate is the 1971 and later style - 1966 uses the ground wire over a stud, 1971 and later used the spade on the plate next to the field connection.
I guess at this point, since it COULD be the wrong alternator, or it could be the right one missing the isolation diode, I can't say a new regulator will totally fix it. 16 is too high, yes, and even the isolation diode would only drop it to 15, still a bit too high, but more in the ball-park.
It would take a close-up photo of the rear dead-on so I could see inside the back end, on the "left side" to see how the positive diode set is wired to know what year range the alternator really is.

This is what I hate about remanufactured parts - often they are a hodge-podge of parts they pull from baskets of clean parts to make an alternator that "will fit"- not necessarily work, but will fit.
OR, a previous owner got dumb with it...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 12:27pm
That looks exactly like the back of my 73 55 amp, near as I can tell with that paint on it.

I was going to offer up the regulator from my 69 if it would work, but that is apparently already a missmatch.

Time to send it off to billd and get it sorted out!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mr-bug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/19/2010 at 7:16pm
This is the best picture I can get without removing it.
 
Thanks.
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