'66 American auto trans ?

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   I'm new to Ramblers and to this car, which I just got and am sorting out.The tranny jumps in and out of gear. It's not slushy; in fact when it jumps back in it's very crisp. 
Fluid seems fine. The indicator on the column is a little off, but that shouldn't account for jumping in and out. If I understand the TSM correctly there aren't any vacuum lines to the intake side that could be clogged or...

Is this something obvious I'm missing? Any suggested cures? I'd sure like to avoid the hassles of a transmission shop if this is something I can fix myself. 
Thanks. 

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Pathwayrev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2012 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 93	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pathwayrev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: '66 American auto trans ? Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 7:58am
	I'm new to Ramblers and to this car, which I just got and am sorting out. The tranny jumps in and out of gear. It's not slushy; in fact when it jumps back in it's very crisp. Fluid seems fine. The indicator on the column is a little off, but that shouldn't account for jumping in and out. If I understand the TSM correctly there aren't any vacuum lines to the intake side that could be clogged or... Is this something obvious I'm missing? Any suggested cures? I'd sure like to avoid the hassles of a transmission shop if this is something I can fix myself. Thanks.

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 3945	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 9:34am
	A bit of advice. Make sure the transmission fluid level is correct. You check the transmission fluid level on a Borg Warner with the engine and transmission warm and in neutral, not park. The engine must be running and the transmission must be in neutral. If the level is normal, and the problem isn't cured, check the linkage adjustment. (Without the engine running of course) jack up the car (block the wheels, etc) and put the transmission lever all the way over to the right. Get under the car and and disconnect the transmission linkage from the lever on the transmission. The level should be all the way to the rear. The linkage should fit freely into the lever. If it does not, adjust the linkage to get a free fit and then insert the cotter key and washers to reconnect the linkage. A misadjusted linkage could be at least part of your problem. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

Pathwayrev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2012 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 93	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pathwayrev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 10:00am
	Thanks for the suggestions. I'm in the middle of a carb rebuild and radiator replacement, so checking fluid levels (again) will have to wait. But I can and will check the linkage. Your description is much clearer than what I read in the TSM.

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 3945	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 12:05pm
	Also, when you are under the car, check the condition of the transmission mount. If it is degraded and sagging it can cause the rear of the tranny to drop and alter the geometry of the shift linkage. Hope this helps. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7132	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 8:18pm
	Okay, the 66 still uses the M-35 transmission. It has a TV (throttle valve) cable. That's right -- it's NOT a kick-down cable! It serves that function when pushed in all the way, but from idle to wide open it controls pressure inside the transmission. If you've been driving it much with the cable disconnected the trans might be toasted inside. Disconnect the cable at the throttle linkage. Hold the end between two fingers. It should push in and pull back out easily. If it doesn't that's the problem. The cable can get stiff. The cable pushes in as the throttle is opened. Could just be adjusted wrong. Make sure the carb is at idle (fast idle/choke isn't on). Disconnect the cable. It's lightly spring loaded to be out all the way. Adjust the clevis on the end to and easy pin fit, then adjust the clevis two full turns longer. Reconnect. That's the factory setting. you can go 1/2 to 1 full turn longer for a bit crisper shifting, but if you go longer than three full turns you'll find the trans kicking down to second every time you pull up a hill at speed. Check this out and get back to us!
	Frank Swygert American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com

Pathwayrev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2012 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 93	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pathwayrev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/12/2012 at 11:19am
	Top end work is finally done, so I've turned my attention to the tranny. First step, check linkage adjustment. I suspect that's the problem b/c I sometimes have to pull the shift lever up to get it firmly in Park before the ignition safety switch will engage. Per Pacerman's instructions I moved the lever all the way to the right and then removed the cotter pin on the linkage. But the tranny lever won't budge...either forward or backward. Being new to this part of auto work I hesitate to force things. I can't get it to move by hand. Do I dare rap on it with a hammer, driving the linkage to the rear?

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7132	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/13/2012 at 2:45pm
	Are you sure the transmission is in park? The car won't move forward or back? If you're sure it is in park jack the rear end up with both wheels off the ground (chock the front wheels so it won't roll, and put the back axle on jack stands if you have them -- wheels will be left on so it won't drop on you anyway but...). THEN try to move the lever to the rear (park is all the way forward). If it doesn't want to move grab the driveshaft and twist it one way then the other. Try moving the shift lever while moving the driveshaft. The parking pawl may just be jammed in position. You may have to do no more than jack the rear end up to take pressure off the driveshaft to get it to come out of park.
	Frank Swygert American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com

Pathwayrev Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/03/2012 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 93	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pathwayrev Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/13/2012 at 6:24pm
	Appreciate the wisdom here. The update: I think I have the linkage in the proper position. At least the short drive around the neighborhood didn't bring any in-and-out of gear issues. But something still isn't right. When taken from Park to Drive there's a delay before it drops into gear. It eventually gets there, and gives a nice, firm shift, but it takes too long. I also still have to pull the lever up to activate the start safety switch. Also, the collar on the steering column that holds the gear indicator rotates considerably as I move the shift lever. Is that normal for a Rambler, or is something loose? Because I didn't want to stray too far from the driveway on this maiden voyage, esp. with the problems I've had, it wasn't really a fair test. I'll take it out again tomorrow and get it up to temp so I can re-check fluid levels. I'll also try to get up to at least the first shift point. Gotta be careful, though, because it's not licensed, and John Law lurks. Update to follow, and any other suggestions are welcomed!

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Online Points: 3945	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/13/2012 at 6:42pm
	If you start it in D1 you are starting in low gear and you should feel your first shift before even 10 mph, certainly before 15 mph if you are easy on the throttle. You'll hear the motor drop a few revs when the tranny shifts and the whine of the gears will change pitch. The delay in engaging could be caused by a number of things, including low tranny fluid level or band adjustments. Get a 65 or 66 TSM and read the tranny diagonistics pages in the back of the automatic transmission section. The collar should not be loose on the steering column. I think you need to do some disassembly of the shift column to tighten it up. Again, refer to the TSM. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7132	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: May/14/2012 at 6:11am
	The lever moving considerably is probably due to the rubber grommets in the shift arms on the column and in the shift lever on the transmission. Those should be available, try sending the guys at www.ramblerparts.com a note. The start safety switch has some adjustment, I'll have to look at the TSM and check the procedure. It's mounted on the column inside the car near the floor, and there is a screw on each side. The switch has slotted screw holes, so you just loosen the screws and can move it a bit each way. The grommets need to be checked (and likely replaced) first -- that will throw the switch off (and might fix that problem too). There is a way to tighten the column, but it may be worn down too much to adjust. Will look that up for you too. Joe has described the shifting well, starting in D1 rather than D2 (second drive position instead of the first one after neutral, and I recommend you start in D1). The trans is old and may just need servicing. I'd ask a local shop about adjusting the bands and overhauling the valve body. If you're fairly competent with mechanics you can change the fluid, clean the screen (no replaceable filter) and clean the valve body. You do need the TSM illustration of the valve body to put it back together correctly though. It just needs taking apart and a thorough cleaning. That will revive (or at least "perk up") most auto trannys that sat a while -- valves gum up and stick.
	Frank Swygert American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com