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'66 Ambassador Transmission

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A6KA55P115*** View Drop Down
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    Posted: Nov/30/2014 at 11:53am
  I am working on my 1966 Ambassador 327, 2BBL, 3 speed column shift transmission.  I recently had Holley rebuild the Holley 2209 carburetor.  I am installing a NOS throttle valve cable to alleviate binding problems from age wear inside the cable housing.  I know how to install  the cable into the transmission, and also the carburetor mounting end.  I just don't want to rely on counting how many turns it took to remove the clevis end when I replace it on the new TV cable.     I am looking to find how to properly adjust the clevis end in relation to the carburetor for proper transmission shift points.    I have a TSM, but I cannot locate the section on how to do this procedure.  If anyone knows how to do this properly, I would appreciate your advice, as experience is always good along with written TSM instructions.  Thanks...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A6KA55P115*** Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2014 at 4:50pm
  I just finished installing the new  TV cable into the transmission.   Making sure that the round spring that fits into the machined notch on the cable end scurely snapped over the valve lever from within the transmission, holding it securely.  The outer cable end housing was then bolted to the transmission.   On the upper carburetor side, I clipped the cable into it's bracket.   The cable is not connected to the carburetor yet.  I am going to search the TSM to find the proper proceedure for adjusting the clevis for correct shift points.   I noticed that the new TV cable slides very freely with no resistance as compared to the original one that I just removed.  Also, the cable slowly self returns  to the fully extended position, toward the front of the car , when I push it back in toward the transmission.  I guess that is the valve doing it's job.   If anyone can help me with directions on how to correctly adjust the clevis,  I would appreciate the help.  Thanks....  Dan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/30/2014 at 5:38pm
With carburetor throttle valve in the hot idle position (off fast idle cam) engine not running, disconnect the throttle cable at lever on carburetor throttle control shaft. Pull throttle cable toward carburetor and adjust clevis to obtain a "free" pin fit in the throttle shaft lever hole. Then adjust clevis two turns long.

I found this under Flash-O-Matic - 10 series in the 64 Classic Ambassador TSM. I think I looked before and couldn't find it in the V-8 section. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2014 at 8:26am
That's the correct adjustment for all the cable controlled trannys. You shouldn't have to pull the throttle cable toward the throttle, the spring inside the trans should push it out. I guess it says that in case the cable is a little stiff. Hold the clevis between thumb and forefinger tip. You should be able to move the cable in and out (only moves ~1") easily. If you can't, the cable is too stiff. The cable will only move so far, so pulling it out toward the throttle doesn't hurt a thing.

You can go up to two additional turns (four turns total) longer. That will provide a bit firmer and quicker shifting. Four might be too long though, it was on my 196. If it's too long you will go up hills in second gear when you would normally go up in third. When the cable bottoms out (in all the way) and the car is under a certain speed (controlled by the governor on the trans output shaft) the trans will kick down into second (passing gear). Four turns total may work with the V-8, but the 196 required too much throttle going up hills for more than 3.5 turns longer.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A6KA55P115*** Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2014 at 12:47pm
  Thanks for the reply.        Apparently this is correct as the amount of turns that I counted when taking the clevis off of the original cable matched the amount of turns after adjusting the new cable and clevis  to the carburetor.   I counted 16 1/2 turns.   I did find how to adjust the TV cable in the TSM, but it is spelled out under several sections in the transmission section of the book.  They adjust the length of the cable in relation to oil pressure in the transmission.  Thanks very much for your help....  Dan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FSJunkie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2014 at 2:06pm
Adjusting my pressure is the "proper" method that nobody ever uses.

Adjusting for loose pin fir at curb idle plus two turns in the initial setting which works fine most of the time.

Fine tune them by shift feel. A long cable will make late and hard shifts. A short cable will make early and soft shifts and in severe cases, transmission slippage.

I have mine adjusted for loose fit plus 1/2 turn just to give me room to adjust the idle speed. Still shifts too hard and late for my taste, but I can't make it any shorter so that's as soft as it will get.

I've never seen a BW automatic shift 2-3 smoothly. I'm not a fan of them.
1955 Packard
1966 Marlin
1972 Wagoneer
1973 Ambassador
1977 Hornet
1982 Concord D/L
1984 Eagle Limited
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote A6KA55P115*** Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/01/2014 at 5:26pm

     Since I won't be driving the car in this bad weather, I will wait till spring until I check the transmission oil pressure with a pressure guage.    We had this car since new, it was ordered in March of 1966 and we got it May 1966, and the transmission was always dependable and shifted smoothly.     My father had all fluids changed regularly.     He would jokingly say that when maintaining the car, the cheapest thing that you can do for it was to use the most expensive fluids in it.      Even now I have two cases of Rambler transmission fluid   "Type A  AQ-AFT Suffix A"   that he bought in 1974 from the dealer that we got the car from, Luchetti Sales and Service, Exeter, Pa..     The back of the can states that the AQ-AFT means "Armour Qualification - Automatic Transmission Fluid ".     I wouldn't use it ,  but I'm sure that it is probably still good.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sjaakslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2022 at 2:37pm
Older post, but this was very applicable to what I'm doing on my 65 Marlin...

The TV cable was unhooked at the carb by a previous owner, don't know for how long. I removed it from the transmission, because it was very hard to move. I read some posts here about it's function, but it's all new to me. I have the pin popping out of the transmission, suppose that's how it should be? 

There's this spring/clip on the transmission end of the cable. What does that do? Should that hold the pin in the inner cable? Can I reinstall the cable the same way as I removed it, or would I need to drop the oil pan?Confused

I'm planning on sending the cable out for rebuilding, so it moves freely again. On fb though someone suggested the cable end doesn't look right. Any thoughts here? Thanks.

Dennis
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/29/2022 at 10:33pm
You should not have been able to easily remove the cable from the transmission, I mean just externally. Did you drop the pan to get it out?

There is a rod with an L end that operates a lever. The lever inside the trans moves easily. If it doesn't, something is wrong. 

Don't drive it beyond your parking lot etc without the trans cable working and adjusted right. You'll harm the trans with extended highway driving without it. 

The cable is an integral part of the transmission, doesnt itself need service, and there's no reason to remove it fr the car separately from the transmission. 

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sjaakslinger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/30/2022 at 4:37am
No, I removed the bolt and could easily remove the cable. I bought the car 2 years ago and immediately started working on it. They rebuilt the engine in the US in 2015, I think they never hooked up the tv cable after that. The bracket at the intake was also missing.

Because there was hardly any movement in the cable I removed it. Before sending it out for rebuilding I wanna make sure the cable itself is ok, don't want to spend more money on another cable if possible.


The pin popped out of the transmission, guess that's how it should be? I can easily push the pin down about an inch till it hits a stops. It then just pops back up. Can't you just put the cable back in? Wouldn't the wire/spring on the transmission end of the cable slide over the pin till the pin hits it's stop? With some help by pushing the inner cable from the carb end.

This is out of the parts catalog:

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