'66 232 won't idle

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   I've been looking on eBay for some here, but to no avail. I did manage to get one from a CJ5 258, courtesy of a guy I work with. I took the original dizzy out and I'm not an expert, but how much end float should there be in the shaft? I am going to put the 258 one in tomorrow, but they both have a similar amount of end float. They both move around 1/16". Could this be whats wrong?

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Pokerchip Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Apr/24/2009 Location: Brisbane QLD Status: Offline Points: 467	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pokerchip Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/24/2011 at 5:24am
	I've been looking on eBay for some here, but to no avail. I did manage to get one from a CJ5 258, courtesy of a guy I work with. I took the original dizzy out and I'm not an expert, but how much end float should there be in the shaft? I am going to put the 258 one in tomorrow, but they both have a similar amount of end float. They both move around 1/16". Could this be whats wrong?
	1964 Rambler American 330Always hunting for another Rambler!

Pokerchip Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Apr/24/2009 Location: Brisbane QLD Status: Offline Points: 467	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pokerchip Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/26/2011 at 7:29am
	Ok, ive put the dizzy from the 258 in, and there is no difference It could be that both dizzy's are toast. Is there anything else I should check that could be causing this problem? Ive checked for leaks in all the hoses and checked the intake/exhaust manifold bolts for tightness and they are all fine. Any ideas?
	1964 Rambler American 330Always hunting for another Rambler!

tyrodtom Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2823	Post Options Post Reply Quote tyrodtom Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jul/26/2011 at 9:27am
	Lets go back to when you tightened the intake. Did that change anything ? It should have, if it didn't then part of the intake gasket may be broke and could have fallen out. You give us no idea how you're checking for leaks. The way you're trying to fix this is the "throw parts at it until the problem goes away" method, that gets expensive fast. When I asked how you was setting your float level, and to take off the carb top to check if the float bowl was full, you sent the carb out for rebuild, then assumed the rebuilt had to be good. They are not always good, it happens. When then suspicion was thrown on the distributor, if the pivot was good, or the advance working, both very easy things to check, you replaced the distributor, then began to wonder if it was bad also. There's a way you can check your intake gasket for leaks, before you tear everything down. Get a can of starter fluid, with a tube on the nozzle. With the engine running, gently spray some starter fluid at the intake gasket a little at a time, go all around the manifold, and carb base, and all fittings. If your idle speed jumps up at any time during this, it's because fluid is getting thru where you were spraying.
	66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.

Pokerchip Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Apr/24/2009 Location: Brisbane QLD Status: Offline Points: 467	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pokerchip Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/05/2011 at 4:06am
	Thanks for all the help over the past few pages tyrodtom! Sorry for the extreme space between updates, I have been in hospital recently and havent had time to look at the car. Anyway, I have been working on it this week, and re-tightened the intake bolts, which were all fine and there was no change in idle or driving. I also tried the starter fluid trick, and no change in engine revs, but while the fluid was on the gasket, i tried the accelerator pedal and it felt alot more responsive, so the intake/exhaust manifold gasket has been replaced. I also checked the float bowl, and that was where it should be according to the TSM. The distributor pivot was fine, and advance working properly (both centrifugal and vacuum) and points gap correct. I pulled off the carbie this afternoon to see if the carb to intake gasket was ok, which it was, but I noticed that there is a gasket between a 'spacer' and the intake itself for the EGR unit to feed into the intake. I tried to pull it off, and it cracked almost immediately. So it seems that this is could be the culprit. Are these spacer plates still avaliable to buy, or will I need to have one machined up? I'm not sure if other 232's used them as this is a California Emmisions choked engine. The original spacer is what looks like compressed cork, but will getting one machined from mild steel make much of a difference in heat transferrence to the carb?
	1964 Rambler American 330Always hunting for another Rambler!

Pokerchip Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Nut Joined: Apr/24/2009 Location: Brisbane QLD Status: Offline Points: 467	Post Options Post Reply Quote Pokerchip Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Oct/07/2011 at 4:25am
	This explains all those problems. A vacuum leak through the carb insulator. Edited by Pokerchip - Oct/07/2011 at 4:28am
	1964 Rambler American 330Always hunting for another Rambler!