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'66 232 - Carter WCD - Dripping Nozzles

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Thikstik View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2011 at 9:42pm
Put carb cleaner  or some other liquid in there and see if it seeps past bleeds 
75 gremlin x, jeep 4L headed 258,Clifford cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2011 at 10:12pm
No, sewing needles are too thick. A small quilting needle - a "fine" might start to go. But living around needles with my wife a professional quilter, I can say almost all sewing and quilting needles are likely too large.
Do you have a wire brush? If so, clip a wire out of the wire brush and it might go. When I say wire brush I don't mean the wheel on the motor, I mean the brush with a wood or plastic handle used to clean rust or brush up after welding, etc..
 
It shows it as an anti-percolator bleed - as I figured..........
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tloftus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/17/2011 at 10:22am
Gave her another good cleaning and re-set the floats at 1/4".. taking her to a car show today at Hobby Lobby in Sioux City.  We'll see how she does when I go to restart her.

Thanks,
Tom
1966 AMC Rambler American Rogue - 232 I6
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/27/2012 at 10:32pm
I have this same problem with my '64 American. After reading this I thought - "it must be clogged" 

Well I took it apart and blew out the passages with carb cleaner - wasn't clogged ;-(

I too have previously tried various float settings - no help there either.

I am contemplating fabbing some sort of insulator plate - but those with Americans know there ain't much (as in zero) extra clearance from the air cleaner to the hood ;-(

Seems like this ought to be a pretty widespread problem - is everyone just living with it or what?

I am also considering making some sort of insulating wrap for the carb - seems extreme but I gotta try something.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/27/2012 at 11:38pm
If its happening in January....woa.  Do yalls cars have a fuel return line? Im not remembering one on that old.
75 gremlin x, jeep 4L headed 258,Clifford cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/29/2012 at 7:51am
No not driving it in January, but it'd probably do it now too.
Mine does it all the time (although I only drive it part of the year) there are months when it's NOT really that hot outside - so I have to wonder if mine does it all the time - what about the guys in Arizona or California - places where it's really hot by comparison - what the heck are you guys doing over there? 
I have to wonder is it really the modern fuel causing this grief or is there another problem I am missing. No return fuel line.
When this happens - do you suppose it is simply the fuel in the carb itself that is boiling/expanding or do you think it is also the fuel line from the pump?  I could try insulating that line as well.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/29/2012 at 8:52am
fuel line from pump won't be a problem. The float valve shut off fuel flow into the carb unless the pressure is just too great. Check that the lines aren't running close to exhaust or heat source.
Folks often overlook plugged or restricted air bleeds. There are tiny passages that are hard to see for some folks unless their eyes are really good. If those plug, fuel will siphon into the venturi area just like fuel continues to flow if you start a siphon using a hose out of a tank. The air bleeds prevent siphon effect and intriduce air into the fuel stream in the case of idle circuits, etc.
They are really small and it takes a fine wire to clear them out. Blowing carb cleaner won't do it.
 
What engine is in your car??? Is the heat riser valve in the exhaust stuck closed?? Check that if you have a stock exhaust system. If the heat riser valve is stuck closed (pretty common for it to stick) it will overheat the intake below the carb. If it's stuck open, in our climate here, it means crappy streetability in weather below about 50 degrees or with very high humidity - even leads to car icing here if it's stuck open. Stuck closed means the exhaust is being forced to heat the intake under the carb at all times. That will leat to heat soak and fuel boiling.
 
So, check:
Heat riser valve in exhaust if you have a stock system. It's on the right side on a V8 between the exhaust manifold and head pipe, it's in the exhaust manifold itself on a 6 cyl.
Check the air bleeds in the carb - VERY fine/small passages, and blowing won't do it if they are plugged with gunk. There are some things carb cleaner just won't impact.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/29/2012 at 11:57am
Re heat riser-Good call Bill.
 
Are you going to try what i had posted re-putting something in passages and see if it goes past valve?  Could also put your mouth, a small tube and bubble to work here.
75 gremlin x, jeep 4L headed 258,Clifford cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemirambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/30/2012 at 10:29pm
BillD, I used the carb cleaner - not so much to clean the small orifices, but as a check to see if they were clogged. I sprayed the carb cleaner into the side opposite the "anti percolator bushing" and watched the spray exit from those small orifices - making me think all is well there.

The engine is a 196 OHV - the fuel line runs along the top of the valve cover & down to the pump - not near the exhaust at all.

There is a tube off the exhaust manifold to the choke. Not the type that can clog with exhaust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/03/2012 at 11:01am
There isn't a heat riser on the 196 exhaust, no need since the exhaust comes out right under the carb. Heat can be a problem. You could make a heat shield for the carb. Just a piece of sheet metal  cut to fit between the carb and intake. Put the metal between two carb base gaskets. The metal needs to be big enough to extend around the base of the carb. Bend up at VC, down on manifold side. Maybe a 8" square with carb hole in center.

Check this site out too: http://wps.com/AMC/195.6OHV/Head-cooling/

That mod would help as it would keep the head just a little cooler.
Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine
www.amc-mag.com
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