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65 rambler classic help |
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mdrew0307
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Joined: Feb/01/2012 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Topic: 65 rambler classic helpPosted: Apr/14/2012 at 4:21pm |
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Hello, i have a post in the wanted section because my mechanic told me i needed a new lower control
arm and torque arm. He said one of my bolts was missing and the other
was ready to break. He replaced one bolt but said he coudnt get the
other one in because both arms were bent. To me the control arm looks ok
but im not an expert. The torque arm is bent as you can see in the
pics. So what do you guys think? do i need both or can try to just find the torque arm?
thanks for the help ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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carnuck
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Joined: Mar/31/2010 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 1432 |
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Posted: Apr/15/2012 at 2:32am |
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Looks like someone did a mickey mouse repair after an accident. That brake hose looks none to safe either.
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FuzzFace2
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Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Connecticut Status: Online Points: 6373 |
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Posted: Apr/15/2012 at 11:39am |
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How far off are the holes that a 2nd bolt cant be installed or is the hole oblong?
It looks like the shop that put the 1 bolt in only used grade 5 and not grade 8.
Good call on the hose I thought it was a blob of dirt. And to think the shop miss it but saw the missing / bad bolts and bent rod.
Dave ---- Edited by FuzzFace2 - Apr/15/2012 at 11:44am |
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Josh
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Posted: Apr/15/2012 at 11:48am |
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Even if nothing is bent those bolts are a pain. Usually you will get one in and then have to do some prying and maneuvering to get the second one in. If I remember correctly, the last time I had one apart it was easier with the wheels on the ground than with the car jacked up due to the suspension geometry.
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'66 Marlin, 327/Shift-Command
'64 Rambler Classic 550, 401/727 '65 Rambler Classic 770 Cross Country, 232/Flash-O-Matic '85 Grand Wagoneer, 360/727, 4" lift '66 Marlin, 327/T10 (parts car) |
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mdrew0307
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Posted: Apr/15/2012 at 1:42pm |
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I will have double check that hose. What is the difference in grades for bolts? strength? When i went to go pick up the car he had it jacked up pretty high to show me everything, maybe he had it that high when he was trying to get the bolt in. I will try to see if the holes line up on flat ground. I think im gonna try to hunt down the toque arm anyways at least because it does have that bend in it.
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gtoman_us
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Posted: Apr/15/2012 at 6:21pm |
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I just looked and the factory strut rod bolts are a grade 5 on my '64. I think the engineering principle is to provide a sheer off in a severe wheel impact. You need both bolts because they double function to bolt down the ballpoint as well as the strut rod.
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1964 Rambler Ambassador Cross Country Wagon
1965 GTO 1931 Model A Ford "Flat Roofs are Cool" |
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FuzzFace2
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Posted: Apr/16/2012 at 10:55am |
I would still try and get 2 bolts in it. As for sheering I dont think I have ever seen any sheer, it bends the strut rod and spindle/ knuckel assy.
Dave ---- Edited by FuzzFace2 - Apr/16/2012 at 10:55am |
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farna
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Posted: Apr/18/2012 at 8:30pm |
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That bend in the arm isn't a problem. That's a forged steel rod that won't bend or break easily. It will be a little weaker at the bend, but not enough to worry about. If you hit something hard enough to bend it you're not going to be worrying about (or able!) to steer the car. I'd just try jacking under the control arm so there is weight on it and putting the other bolt in. Loosen the one that's in there first. You might need someone to bounce on the fender while you look to see when the second hole lines up.
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Frank Swygert
American Motors Cars Magazine www.amc-mag.com |
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