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'65 195.6 OHV teardown

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tomj View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: '65 195.6 OHV teardown
    Posted: Aug/23/2017 at 11:38pm
some months ago i bought a 195.6 OHV, pulled from a '65 American wagon. i was told "it ran great when we pulled it" (which i always take with a grain of salt) but when i got it home and the valve cover off, half the pushrods fell out, two bent. OK!  

but it turns out it really is in great condition overall. very little wear, probably few miles. almost no cylinder wear, and this is an unmolested original. orange paint, but AMC aqua underneath the motor mounts. "AM" symbols on the bearing inserts, VICTOR brand gaskets, and best of all, zero overbore. 

i mic'ed all the bores, and they are as good as new-ish. cyls 3, 4, 5 are actually half a thousandth undersize, and as much taper. the worst was #1, which had 1.5 thousandths of taper and out of round. zero scoring! alas some surface stain and rust on 3 and 4 from a leaky headgasket, but i think it will hone out. 

it looks like a candidate for a "freshen", rings and bearings. cam and lifters are all good. i don't trust the head, especially with that water in cyls 3, 4, though the oil was good, no mayonnaise and no sign of oil in the cooling system. i have a good head in the pile. i'll have this one crack-checked. 

i did find a plastic bag (?) in the oil pan! back in the rear, inches from the pickup. was NOT under the oil filler neck. weird.












1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 6:26am
Good score! I'd check, or maybe just replace, that auto flexplate if you intend to use an auto trans with it. AMC used a hard steel and they tend to crack with heat and age combined. Of course it takes 40+ years of use to do it... so not a part "problem". It amazes me that people talk about "crap parts" like that and vac wipers that fail after 30+ years of use and just plain age!
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Devilboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 6:49am
A plastic bag?! That is a new one to me. Wild.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 11:08pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

Good score! I'd check, or maybe just replace, that auto flexplate if you intend to use an auto trans with it. AMC used a hard steel and they tend to crack with heat and age combined. Of course it takes 40+ years of use to do it... so not a part "problem". It amazes me that people talk about "crap parts" like that and vac wipers that fail after 30+ years of use and just plain age!

oh good point on the flex plate -- i will check it carefully. this engine doesn't have a plan. i love the idea of sticking into a Nash for some perverse reason. i have an M35 here that was behind a 232 that was in the 70 hornet i had years ago. it was "good" then, but i gave away the torque converter (mistake). likely i'd get a replacement, do a rebuild on that, and mate it up. nice cheap solid driveline for a Nashcan.

amen on the vaccuum wipers etc. mine work great. if i wanted a new car i'd buy a toyota. i wasSHOCKED! when i went to buy a steering wheel cover for my '04 Scion xB some 7 years ago -- steering wheel sizes are STANDARDIZED! omfg. somehow that makes me sad.



Edited by tomj - Aug/24/2017 at 11:23pm
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 11:18pm
today i started cleaning stuff today. the crank is better than expected. polished up the rear main and one rod journal, so i could inspect and mic them. 

i'll measure them all to make sure of course, but these two are 0-under. and no scoring at all. minor staining around the oil holes. 

this engine is improbably good, but i'm as sure as you can be that it's never been opened before. Frank, is there a way to identify "service engines", dealer-installed replacement engines? 

this is the rear main, about 15 seconds of 600 grit wet or dry, followed by a couple minutes of crocus cloth.







the worst-seeming rod journal is as good




1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/24/2017 at 11:21pm
Originally posted by Devilboy Devilboy wrote:

A plastic bag?! That is a new one to me. Wild.

yeah, right? you never know what you find... and after so many worn out junkers, cracked heads, all sorts of nonsense. 50 years is a long time for a low cost product.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 6:33am
I don't know of any way to ID service replacement engines, not the sixes anyway. Look at the pads where the date code is stamped. On the Gen2/3 V-8s there was a code stamped on one of the pads (don't remember exactly where right now), but no one has been able to decipher it. Appears that different dealers stamped different codes in on the few I've seen, no pattern.

There is one big difference between the early and late L-heads -- the water pump location. No L-heads made 56-57. 56 and earlier have the water pump on the left side of the block driven by a shaft from the generator, 58+ have the front mounted water pump. The left side pump might be more efficient at cooling -- it's in the middle of the block (you can still see the big boss on the side of later ones where it would have been). The long hose was viewed as a trouble spot, and the generator needed a longer shaft in the back. Alternator conversion would be interesting indeed! I've seen one with a shaft bracket and pulley, alternator on other side.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pacerman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 7:44am
Tom I have an extra BW 35 torque converter core if you need it,. I have seen one 195.5 with an "S" in the date code which I assumed meant service replacement. Joe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/25/2017 at 10:07am
I think the T/C for that 70 transmission will be different than one that was behind a 196. In 67 they changed the spline count so you will probably need to find the correct converter. I gave a guy a 67 transmission and his 64 converter would not fit, so it was another bus ride to get him the right converter.

That engine looks good enough that with rings and bearings etc. it would go another forty years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/26/2017 at 10:15pm
Tom,
I followed your suggestion of ARP studs on my 196.
Try http://www.allensfasteners.com/search_results.asp?txtsearchParamCat=61
Great pricing for the studs.

Nick
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