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64 rambler 660 classic ignition issue

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Lexstang View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lexstang Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/20/2016 at 9:12pm
My 2 cents is you will want brake hoses. The two front ones and the one going to the rear axle. My 63 was so swelled that the back brakes didn't work. I couldn't even bleed the brakes. I had a lot of trouble learning about how to set points because I had never dealt with them before but its fun to learn.
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chippewa26 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chippewa26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/24/2016 at 5:09pm
Thanks everyone!! I put in new coil, points and condenser rebuilt the carb right away, wouldn't you know it? She fired right up!! Thank you everyone for the help!!
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Blitzman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blitzman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/28/2016 at 4:09pm
Cool, glad you got it going. Thumbs Up
I was just going to say a few things...
Maybe the extra blue wire is one they ran for a Tach? Did you find out? I did not see in skimming posts.

On many of the I6 equipped cars they used a Resistive Wire instead of a ballast resistor. I think if it is Pink or is it Orange? Dist. wire is usually Black.

I just went and looked at my `72 Hornet Sportabout and it has the factory plug still with TWO wires, a Yellow one and slightly larger gauge um... Solid Purplish uh brown? ha, can't tell what color it is, muddy looking color. Now I forget if I even knew where the other one goes on mine LOL, been so long till I got back into it
I remember other AMC's having a single resistive wire for ballast and no other.

If you run a direct wire to your coil then you should insert the appropriate ballast.

If you put in an aftermarket one then run new wire with specified or supplied external Ballast appropriate for RPM(Higher revving 4Cyl engines, High Perf, etc usually require higher resistance to avoid overheating the coil due to a more constant current or less of an OFF time actually).

Peace!



Edited by Blitzman - Jul/30/2016 at 1:31pm
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chippewa26 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chippewa26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/30/2016 at 9:55pm
Thanks Blitzman!! I gotta look into that yet. Does anyone know as to where I can find a clutch adjustment rod for the throwout lever? I took the original out, and its bent to heck!! Would like to replace it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/31/2016 at 5:05pm
I've used a steel turn buckle to make an adjustable rod before. Use one that will take at least a 3/8" bolt. Run a bolt in each end and cut the head off. Grind one end rounded to fit in the clutch fork, the other might need to be different. Just make it however you need.
Frank Swygert
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chippewa26 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chippewa26 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/31/2016 at 6:28pm
A turnbuckle!! Didn't think of that idea. Thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2016 at 5:48am
IIRC it's just a straight rod, may have a loop on the linkage end. In that case you may find a screw eye that will work. 
Frank Swygert
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