6 speed manual transmissions

I've been looking for a write up on installing 6 speed trans in our AMC's. John Elle had a great write up on installing the Mustang 5 speed. Has anyone written instructions and parts needed for installing 6 speed trans?

If you don't want to cut the floor you need to get the TKO setup with the adjustable shifter location which allows the movement of the shifter to fit your car.

Richmond ROD 6 speed fits with minimal cutting ... but have heard some break 6th gear if pushed hard behind a high hp engine, so more of a cruising gear.  Richmond's split case makes service simpler.  Richmond used to offer an AMC input shaft for stock bell, but not available for a long time, so use GM version with Lakewood 15411 or Quicktime RM-8075 bell.

The ROD comes with a bunch of options, including different input gear sets.  Standard is with the fine-pitch, steep helix OD gear for quieter running (weaker).  Their "road race" sixth has a coarse pitch and shallower helix for increased strength. Check with Richmond if the road-race 6th is good for full load. The strongest gearset is the 2.77, 1.88, 1.46, 1.19, 1.00, 0.84 (Code 7021626EL) - about 20% lower tooth loads.       

First gear options:  4.41, 4.06, 3.28, 3.04 and 3.01, 2.77, 2.24, 2.08
Sixth gear options: 0.76, 0.81, 0.86, 0.91 and 0.52, 0.55, 0.59, 0.62
Road race sixth gear: 0.80 and 0.84 

Check the link.
http://www.richmondgear.com/index.php/transmission/6-speed-rod

NeedafasterAMX's install of GM-comversion Viper T56 required very little cutting and worked with stock-style clutch.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/my-t56-6-speed-install_topic3544.html

TKO is bigger up top than T56.   T56 Magnum has multiple shifter positions like TKO.   I was going to go with the Richmond  but decided to go with T56 Magnum since most people said the Magnum was stronger and shifted better ( Tremec rates the T56 Magnum = 700 lbf.ft torque and 7500+ rpm shift).

For T56 Magnum, wanted to keep drivetrain angle and full access to shifter cover, so cut hole to clear and made a bolt-on cover to fit (... you may be able to get away with cutting less, but would need to angle transmission down a bit, so have to check driveline angles, and would lose access to shifter .... a regular T56 has a smaller tailshaft housing and shifter, so fits more easily ... see needafasterAMXs Viper T56 install for reference).  Also needed to modify the console map pocket to clear the cover.  Tunnel needed some minor hammer-work to get desired clearance in addition to cutting the hole.  Haven't fininshed the install, so don't have finished photos, but this gives idea:

Hole for T56 Magnum ('74 Javelin).  Also need to cut a bit of the crossmember to clear.  With shifter in rear position, it comes up very close to hole for auto floor shifter, so use carpet for an automatic ... front or mid-shift location may get close to stock manual location if you use an offset shifter (Tremec and others have offset shifter options).  The LS transmission is rotated 5 degrees toward driver, with trans mount horizontal, to give a better shifter position for driver.

Interior shots of hole, cover, console:


Master cylinder mounted to firewall:


Remote reservoir for master:


Crossmember (upside down):


Underside view with transmission, exhaust, etc.   Wrapped the exhaust (3" dia.) to act as a heat barrier ... but a shield may be better.   Speedo cable also runs close to exhaust on left side, so used sleeve over cable.  Crossmember was notched to clear cable to try to get generous bend radius.





Parts:

Transmisssion: Tremec TUET-11009 (2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, 0.80, 0.63) - Chevy LS style close ratio

Rear gear:  For healthy street cam, a 3.90 ratio is ideal but tough to find.   3.73 or 4.10 is OK.  For a less aggressive cam, 3.15 or 3.54 should work.

Bell Housing: Quicktime RM-8075-Special for T56 Magnum (bell housing was custom ordered from Summit ... was $660 at the time, but that was before Mr.Gasket/Lakewood bought Quicktime and increased prices). The T56 Magnum bell is shorter than the RM8075 and works with a concentric slave cylinder - no hole or pivot for conventional fork)

Bell Housing to Transmission bolts:  qty.8, M10-1.5 x 40mm lg socket head bolts+ hardened washers (better access using socket heads)

Bell Housing to Engine bolts:  qty.4, 3/8 UNC x 3 1/2" lg;  qty.2, 7/16 UNC x 3 1/2" lg + hardened washers 

Slave Cylinder:  Stock 2000-2002 Camaro.  Others may work.  Check bearing contact diameter is OK for your pressure plate fingers

Slave Cylinder bolts:  2 x M6-1.0 x 20mm lg. + washers

Master Cylinder:  3/4" or 13/16" bore ... depending on pedal ratio.  I used a Wilwood master (260-10373) and modified booster bracket (removed stud from booster, enlarged hole and ground for clearance, upper bolt for master goes through booster bracket and firewall), narrowed master mounting flange slightly, tapped flange and used studs with jam nuts instead of bolts, drilled holes in firewall and modified pedal to connect to master push rod.  Need about a 6:1 pedal ratio, depending on clutch used, so hole for master 2.25" +/- from pivot (my master is mounted on a slight angle upward to pedal using tapered shims to firewall - pushrod should have very little angle through movement).   Need a short threaded extension, heim and offset mouting bracket to mount push rod to pedal.

Master / Slave Plumbing:
- 1/8NPT-04AN 90 degree elbow at master (Aeroquip FBM2611)
- 04AN straight hose end x 2
- 04AN braided teflon brake hose
- 04AN slave adapter fitting (Russel 641001) - drive out pin that retains stock fitting in slave, lube seal on Russel fitting with brake fluid, insert then pin.
- use DOT3 fluid

If you are going hydraulic master / slave, best to bleed before installing.  Was able to bleed then leave fully connected when installing, so no air in system for good pedal feel.  Check youtube for video on bleeding.

Clutch:  Any 26 spline disc clutch to suit power level (using McLeod Street Twin w/ B&B Long pressure plate, twin disc clutch and aluminum flywheel kit McLeod had on sale  McLeod part 63506B-XX-07)Note: Was not balanced, so match balance to exiting flywheel or flexplate.

Pilot bearing:  From an 89 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L  (Napa B041 .... 15mm ID needle bearing x 1.055" OD ... note Napa part description is incorrect on bore size (says 0.613"), but it is 15mm (0.591") ... at least the one I got ... Tremec recommends a bearing instead of a bushing)


Edited by Red Devil - Feb/04/2018 at 1:02pm

Added crossmember photo.  I custom built it to clear pipes from headers and x-pipe.   Mounts to rear holes in frame and uses a GM trans mount.  Car is in storage, but will try to get a few photos.

Thanks, RD

Edit: A couple interior shots of the master pushrod connected to the pedal(boot removed to show pushrod is straight into the master). I made a 3/8" thick bracket with a hole that fits snug to the pedal pivot tube and bolted to the side of the pedal to allow easy geometry changes by fitting a different bracket. A heim is bolted to the bracket with a threaded coupling to the pushrod and a jam nut.





Interior shot showing shifter position in neutral using a Longacre stick shortened and redrilled. Sorry not the best but gives an idea. The red toggle switch on the console is for the reverse lock-out (in series with brake light switch on pedal, so brake pedal must be pressed and switch on to shift into reverse).



Edit: Added photos showing T56 Magnum bolt pattern for reference (same as T56 except one hole).







American Powertrain and others sell adapter plates to fit to short bells. I'm sure there are more economical options out there.
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8425899-maglink-adapter-kit-for-gm-magnum-to-gm-tko-muncie-t10-bell.html

Edited by Red Devil - Jan/28/2015 at 9:45am

I thought of sticking richmond 6 speed I have but I think I would kill it with my car, I think Ill keep it for my road car with a mild 401.