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'59 American auto trans repair

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pwreimers View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pwreimers Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: '59 American auto trans repair
    Posted: Aug/01/2013 at 4:18pm
I think the root cause of the troubles with this stem from something going wrong with the transmission some time ago. Most of the time, there was no issue; occasionally, when going into reverse, the transmission engaged HARD, with a substantial jolt. Unfortunately, I ignored this, as it happened infrequently and did not repeat itself. In between the hard engagement events, the transmission ran fine.

However, the event happened multiple times; the last time it stripped the hub/axle splines on the driver side rear wheel.

I purchased a new axle and have a used hub, which is not yet torqued to final specification. The inner seal and axle bearing are new. I need to have the transmission examined by a professional and need to get the hub torqued onto the axle in order to have the car drivable again. The car will have to be towed to the transmission shop.

Do I need to have the hub torqued to 250 foot-pounds before towing the vehicle? If I chock the rear wheels so the car will not roll, what tools can I rent/borrow/purchase to accomplish the torque spec?

Note that part of the transmission failure has resulted in a 'no park' situation: with the transmission in PARK, the vehicle is free to roll; with the wheels up off the ground, I can easily rotate the drive shaft by hand.

Thanks for your time and thoughts,
Pete
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Buzzman72 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/01/2013 at 5:19pm
NEW AXLE + USED HUB = NO-NO!

The splines are on the axle; there are no splines in a new hub.  Part of the reason these axle nuts torque at 250 LB/FT is because the torque CUTS the splines into the hub.  So if you have a used axle and a used hub that have already been mated together, you're fine.  The trouble comes when you have a hub that already has splines "cut" into it...and you try to mate it with a different axle.  There's a chance your hub will end up ruined, and won't work with ANY axle.

Or at least that's how I understand it all.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/02/2013 at 10:27am
Buzz is more or less correct. The axle splines do sink into the softer hub metal, but it's the friction bond that holds them together and why the torque is needed. The shallow splines help a lot though.  So you really need a new hub (good luck finding one!) or a used axle with hub. Then torque the nut down to 250 ft/lbs before driving (loosen then torque down).  For moving the car (towing) don't worry about the torque, it won't matter unless the car in under power. You can just tighten as tight as you can and gingerly drive it, just don't apply much power when taking off. 
Frank Swygert
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