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401 turbo motor build

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ghinmi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 401 turbo motor build
    Posted: Sep/21/2014 at 5:41pm
Tony's post inspired me to post the details of my turbo motor as it goes together.  No real progress at this point but I spent most of the day cleaning stuff and going through parts.

Crank is back from being welded.  I went through the local parts store as my normal crank guy is backed up pretty bad.  They were only supposed to weld and grind the thrust and leave everything standard, it came back .010/.010, ugh.  They're getting me bearings for the mix-up so I guess I can live with it.  We'll see how the clearances look, they were dead-on at standard.


Rods and pistons assembled.  They're the old K1 rods with 3/8 bolts.  I'd prefer 7/16 but that's what I've got so I'll run it.  Pistons are the Wiseco Pro Tru dished pistons, 4.195 bore.


Timing cover ready to go.  It's just an old stocker and it's got it's battle scars in the pump housing but it works just fine.  Casting flash knocked out of the passages but that's it for mods.  I just did a quick tear down and inspection and buttoned it right back up.  Water pump is an old Flowkooler aluminum unit.


Block in the hone.  Probably hone it on Tuesday.  It's got aluminum spray welded to #8 cylinder wall but aside from that it's fine.  Should clean up well enough to use.




1975 Cherokee S - Turbo Hemi stick shift autocross/drag race/street 9.97 @ 140.4
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote goops Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2014 at 5:54pm
What do you plan for ring end gap? I took out two of those same pistons with vortech supercharger this summer . I feel end gap was to tight when it built boost and took out top ring grove.
 Curious to hear what you plan for gap of 2 top rings.
                    Thanks Goops
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ghinmi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2014 at 6:20pm
I'll probably gap them pretty conservatively loose.  I'd rather go too much than butt the rings.  Mid .030s I'd guess.  Haven't even thought about it yet to be honest.

What were yours gapped at and how much power/boost were you making?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2014 at 7:13pm
I would do .030 top and .035 second
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote goops Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2014 at 7:45pm
Mine were gapped around 22 or 4 thou per inch bore plus 2 or 3 extra. Boost was a conservative 9 lbs with same bottom end as you talk. New K1 rods new Wiseco pistons. took both pistons top groove out with no signs of detonation anywhere. Pistons were #4 and#3.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dbomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/21/2014 at 8:20pm
put some acidic toilet bowl cleaner on that number 8 cylinder swarf and watch it sizzle while ya eat a sandwich .Might help save your hone stones
rebuiling 73 amx need parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2014 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by goops goops wrote:

Mine were gapped around 22 or 4 thou per inch bore plus 2 or 3 extra. Boost was a conservative 9 lbs with same bottom end as you talk. New K1 rods new Wiseco pistons. took both pistons top groove out with no signs of detonation anywhere. Pistons were #4 and#3.


Yeah, that's pretty tight, make sure you change that next time and it'll be fine.  I ran the Pro Tru flat tops before this, didn't get a chance to lean on them too hard (only 12 psi) but I didn't have a boost related failure.  Unfortunately I had hurt one with nitrous before it was turbocharged and did not realize it.  That's why I went with the dished ones this time.  They should be able to put up with a bunch of boost I would think.


Originally posted by dbomb dbomb wrote:

put some acidic toilet bowl cleaner on that number 8 cylinder swarf and watch it sizzle while ya eat a sandwich .Might help save your hone stones


It's not too bad, honed right out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2014 at 9:58pm
Cylinder wall all cleaned up.




Dip stick hole tapped to 1/8 NPT.  Going to put a compression fitting in there so I can take the tube on and off as needed.  Don't remember where I saw that but I think it was on here.




Passenger side head torn down and checked out good (#8 was the bad piston).  Just a 502 casting with my port work and 2.08/1.74 valves.




My port work




Back together and ready.




I might take the day off tomorrow to work on the engine, we'll see.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote budryzer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2014 at 2:55pm
Very Nice. Port work looks great too. I wish I was courageous enough to even just gasket match.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ghinmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2014 at 8:05pm
That's the first set of AMC heads I ported.  Nothing exotic, they go 270 cfm.

Got the rest of the stuff done on the block today and washed it up.  Checked bearing clearances, everything checked out.  .0025 on the mains, .0030 on the rods.  Found a cam bearing that was thinking of going out, got a new set (hopefully) showing up tomorrow.  Scott's dropping off the new cam Sunday and that's the last part I need aside from pushrods.  Maybe racing next weekend?
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