4.0 head on a '83 258

This has got out of hand! I know the OP originally said something about replacing the head to get the better VC. Taken directly that's absurd, as many pointed out. When he ads that he can get a head for $100 or less it becomes more of a viable option. A lot more work, but for $50 more and some time (a whole day/weekend instead of just a few hours) he can pull it off and the other benefits (better head and exhaust manifold) make the swap worthwhile. All depends on what he can get a usable head for.  I'm skeptical of the $50, but $100-150 for all he needs (head, VC, exhaust manifold) is within range of some of the pick-n-pull yards. Of course you get what you pull... You can pay a few more $ and get a "warranty" -- which means you can bring it back and get another, not your money back.

amcfool1 wrote: will we need?: Fresh antifreeze, new headbolts, headbolt bushings, head gasket, valve cover gasket, exhaust gasket, manifold attaching hardware, new exhaust downpipe, a grinding wheel to "massage" some brackets into shape, a new PS belt? New water heater hoses? JB weld? PCV valve? Belt Idler? Spacers?, the tools to mate a 258 intake up to 242 head? grinder to create clearance for this on the dowels?

I typically trace through steps before I actually do them. I've seen how little concentration I really had before jotting everything onto OneNote and it's a serious mess. This is part of the reason I decided to do a complete 4.0L replacement. The stock 258 head has three major dependencies on the block: The valve cover design, the intake/exhaust combination and the way the exhaust is angled and coupled. A SIMPLE 4.0 head swap requires the head, associated valve cover, dependent exhaust manifold and a modification to the 258 intake to plug the AIR injection portion and cutting into the molds for the dowel pins to properly seat the 258 intake.

Of course you're going to need fluids, JB weld, new head bolts, and a new gasket but why would any of that interfere with the front of the engine? The belt design is fine if it's v-belted and probably the same if it's serpentine.

amcfool1 wrote: Fresh antifreeze, new headbolts, headbolt bushings, head gaskegt, valve cover gasket, exhaust gasket, manifold attaching hardware, new exhaust downpipe, a grinding wheel to "massage" some brackets into shape, a new PS belt? New water heater hoses? JB weld? PCV valve? Belt Idler? Spacers?, the tools to mate a 258 intake up to 242 head? grinder to create clearance for this on the dowels?]

Fresh atifreeze- check. I keep so jugs of all the important fluids at the garage at all times. Just to make sure.

New head bolts,head bolt bushings, and head replacement gasket set. This I realized would add $100-150 to the job but for the price I can get the head set up,the swap is still looking to be aroud $200-250. And yes, I called the yard I can get everything I need for $50.

Manifold attaching hardware,exhaust down pipe. Should either be on my jeep or the one I'm taking everything off of. Tail pipe from the new jeep can just be welded into my existing exhaust.

Griding wheel and grinder-check. New power steering belt? Why? I already have the serpentine system so this shouldn't change. New heater hoses-check? Mine are brand new. I might need a new hose if the new head has different sized fittings maybe. Jb weld- of course I have that. I think anyone that works on cars ha a set of tubes somewhere. If they don't they're silly. Idler? Again why? Goes along with the PS pump bit. Spacers- washers? And grinder goes of course with the grinding wheel. I also have the proper torque wrench and assorted sockets and tools to do the head job.

Oh and no extra charge at this yard for insurance. They stand behind their parts. If they're bad, bring them back and get another one. If they run out of that part. They refund.

The post is not out of hand,it was just bad from the start.No person that lives in the real world will upgrade a plastic valve cover engine.AMC removed around 80 pounds from the engine and it has the small weak head bolts.If you want an engine for mpg or to get you from place to place it is ok.But for performance you need the early stronger and better made engines.