TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > AMC 6 Cylinder Engine Repair and Modifications
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - 390 CFM carb starving on uphill?
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

390 CFM carb starving on uphill?

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
Message
jdarosa View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Oct/31/2014
Location: Portland, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 264
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdarosa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 390 CFM carb starving on uphill?
    Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 6:25pm
I've got a 67 Rogue with 258, aluminum intake, Holley 390 carb. On uphills with steady throttle, the car sputters slightly like it's not getting enough fuel. If I give it more throttle it will accelerate with no problems. Any input? Do I need to adjust the float level or the mixture jets?

Thanks!  
1968 American 440 – 232/AT 4dr
Back to Top
matty 401 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/06/2007
Location: Iowa
Status: Offline
Points: 1727
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote matty 401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/06/2018 at 7:01pm
so at 1/2 throttle  or a little more ?  if over 1/2 throttle check the power valve 
72 matador 401 the beast
79 concord 2 door
72 matador 304 grasshopper
68 Rogue 406
93 Cherokee 4.0 5 speed

Back to Top
tomj View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jan/27/2010
Location: earth
Status: Offline
Points: 7553
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2018 at 12:38am
no carb should change behavior on a hill even a steep one. sounds like crazy-wrong float level. 

is this a change? or has it always done it? did you install the carb? do you know it's history? when was it last apart for rebuild? etc...

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

Back to Top
jdarosa View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Oct/31/2014
Location: Portland, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 264
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdarosa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/07/2018 at 8:53am
It's a new carb, less than 1500 miles on it and the engine. This particular issue is new, and it's been since I started driving the car again this summer. It sat for most of the year and didn't have the issue before.

The carb also will cut out for a second if I increase throttle quickly, like trying to pass someone or take off quickly from a stop. Carbs are on the edge of my expertise level, and the mechanic that installed the carb and tuned it for me put in a spacer to help lessen this issue because he said it was due to fuel/air mixture.

The two are related I'm sure, just this uphill issue is new.

Thanks
1968 American 440 – 232/AT 4dr
Back to Top
tomj View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jan/27/2010
Location: earth
Status: Offline
Points: 7553
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2018 at 12:34am
ahh ok. yeah, carbs are very "analog" by today's standards. not so much complex  as subtle. aka tricky. persist and they will make sense (mostly :-)

first, carb and spark issues can be almost interchangeable in symptom! especially throttle-open-flat-spot-low-speed -- a classic symptom of not enough accell pump squirt, AND spark timing retard due to throttle-open (retarding timing via the vacuum advance unit).

vac advance is mostly for improved light-load (eg. highway) cruise MPG. for disambiguating problems like yours, i recommend pulling the hose off the distributor and plugging it. just to untangle causes. you'll do no harm (except to MPG).

then make sure spark timing is (1) at least approximately correct at idle (5 to 15 BTDC) and (2)that timing increases as you rev up the engine (should approach 30 degrees or whatever by 2000 or so). to make sure mechanical advance is OK.  if so, even half those numbers, move on to the carb. but if spark is A.F.U. fix that.


back to carb, if you accel smoothly and slowly, do you get a bog/flatspot/stall/etc? at least on flat and level? if that's OK,  approaching a hill, smoothly opening throttle to compensate for the load, at some steepness, alone, it begins to lose power, stall etc? IF SO then who knows (lol). hmmm on a 390, like most carbs, the main jets are towards the rear of the car, SPECIFICALLY SO THEY DONT STARVE accellerating. pretty much all carbs in the last 80 years are like this, for this very reason. so i suspect the problem is spark or squirter...

especially if carbs are new to you, spend some time "characterizing" the symptoms. it's also cheaper, easier, and requires no tools. figure out exactly when and what screws up. find a long smooth very slight incline, or at least long and flat. accell extremely lightly; does that work? accell more rapidly. is there a point where that gets worse? go past it; what happens at hard acceleration? (if a flashomatic, do this in "2" from idle so the engine is loaded, if a manual, in one gear too high.)

a flat spot or bog "feels like" the gas pedal has gone soft; it feels like there's a range in the middle of travel where less does something, more does something, but in the middle, nothing. "bog" usually sounds funny too. drive with the air cleaner element removed -- you can hear it more clearly.

if during a bog you can "blip" the throttle (rapidly press past halfway then release back to the original position, super-quick), to ensure a good squirt from the pump, and that makes it feel better for a second, THAT is accellerator pump! OR! spark retard! hence the need to disambiguate before you start.




Edited by tomj - Aug/08/2018 at 12:41am
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

Back to Top
farna View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar
Moderator Lost Dealership Project

Joined: Jul/08/2007
Location: South Carolina
Status: Offline
Points: 19686
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2018 at 6:18am
And since it's a Holley, check that power valve!!
Frank Swygert
Back to Top
Thikstik View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Mar/20/2008
Location: Alabama
Status: Offline
Points: 1327
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/08/2018 at 8:46am
Tomj.  Yes i agree , the Vac advance is a cruising mechanism only...ive had so many disagreements on that!  
Farna-Yes, P valves harden in only a few years which makes them stage richer.  Damn ethanol.  BTW, Hows that AW-4, I bet running perfect!


That said, i realize he's probably lean on the hills.  Have you blown into the fuel filter?  If it restricts your lung pressure, it will do the same for gas. Does the car act more cold natured?
75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258,
264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

Back to Top
Greyhounds_AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Nov/14/2009
Location: Kansas City
Status: Offline
Points: 1268
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/09/2018 at 11:13am
On a hill you should be running on the main jets and power valve for additional enrichment. Your engine may be making enough vacuum to hold the PV closed even in that scenario.

I would put a vacuum gauge on it and see how low the vacuum drops during the hill climb, then order a PV a little lower than that value.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
Back to Top
jdarosa View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Oct/31/2014
Location: Portland, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 264
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdarosa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/12/2018 at 9:08pm
Thanks for the input. I'm switching out the squirters, going up in size, checking the vacuum this week, and checking the fuel filter... The power valve looks to be good too, so hopefully this does it.
1968 American 440 – 232/AT 4dr
Back to Top
Thikstik View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Mar/20/2008
Location: Alabama
Status: Offline
Points: 1327
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thikstik Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/13/2018 at 7:54pm
If it drove fine before it sat what happened?  Your about to add to confusion by switching stuff. The squirters are only for quick throttle demand movements.  Your first bit of info says it cruises badly until more pedal.  That means primary system is lean, maybe rich, but id bet lean.  Have you blown compressed air and carb spray into air bleeds?  This is very routine for Holleys.  Ill add,  My 390 was bad outta the box with an overly  lean cruise mixture.  A new front metering plate fixed it...auto parts arent what they used to be. 

Edited by Thikstik - Aug/13/2018 at 8:02pm
75 gremlin x, jeep 4.0 headed 258,
264H Cliff cam, intake,header. 390 holley. I want a 282 VAM motor!

AC/PS/PDB.

72 AMX , 304 2bbl, 3speed, now disks...probably will sell, want an automatic /AC.

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 3.750 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or