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360 stroker

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WesternRed View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2017 at 9:05pm
You could just get hold of a 401 and save yourself a lot of trouble. By the time you factor in the custom parts and extra machining costs to build a stroker 360 you will probably cover the extra cost of a 401 core.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeepoholic_Jake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2017 at 9:07pm
I could but can't find any in Florida, or any under $2k which I'd rather put that $2k into a mild built 360 and spend at my pace instead of dropping the money right then
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2017 at 10:02pm
You are probably better to just stick with a stock stroke 360 then. Unlike the Mopar, there is no cheap and easy way to do an AMC stroker. If you can't find a 401 then the chances are that 401 cranks aren't going to be laying around the place either. If a 401 is $2K, it's probably going to cost $1K for 401 crank pistons and rods to install in your massively over bored 360, which would be the easiest way to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeepoholic_Jake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2017 at 10:07pm
Massively overboard? It'd only be to .045 over at max, if I was going straight .085 over for standard 401 bore, I'd save and keep looking for a 401, id love to have a full 401, but a 360 is easier to come by and easy to make power with. I've found a 401 crank for $350 from a guy who just had parts laying around for centuries. In the end it might just stay head, cam, intake and go ahead and bore with forged pistons till I gather all the parts to stroke.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/23/2017 at 10:29pm
The only way it can be done with factory parts is with the 0.085" overbore method, that's all I'm saying. Any other way of doing it has additional machining costs, which are not insignificant and/or custom parts.

Occasionally you can get a 401 crank with a burned up rod journal really cheap and that can be the basis of a stroker crank with offset grinding assuming the damage is in the right place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dbltrbl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 12:35am
I built 360 stroker 3 years ago, now maybe 15000 miles on it.

Used 390 crank offset ground to about 3.76 and bored the block to 4.155. Rods are 6.125" long with 2" bearing. Flattop pistons and 291c heads create about 12.5 comp which is good for e85 fuel.

About 11mpg at steady 75 speed with 2.87 rear in Amx. If i would build another one i would use 6" rod and piston with longer skirt but also this combo seems to work ok.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote typhooner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 9:32am
Too bad you are so far away. I had big bucks put into a 360 crank, and had it cryo dipped, indexed, the journals offset ground for longer stroke, nitrided and micro polished. I bought Scat H beam rods to go with it and alecular aluminum bi metal bearings for it. The only thing left was to buy custom shorter pistons from bull tear. The project never materialized so have been sitting on this for about 10 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 11:00am
That's only $45 for surface freight.

K1 also sells a 4" stroke crank with 2.25 journals for SBC rods.

As far as I know it used the early out put pilot hole.

But they are a bargain at around $2200
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote beek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 5:25pm
Originally posted by dbltrbl dbltrbl wrote:

I built 360 stroker 3 years ago, now maybe 15000 miles on it.

Used 390 crank offset ground to about 3.76 and bored the block to 4.155. Rods are 6.125" long with 2" bearing. Flattop pistons and 291c heads create about 12.5 comp which is good for e85 fuel.

About 11mpg at steady 75 speed with 2.87 rear in Amx. If i would build another one i would use 6" rod and piston with longer skirt but also this combo seems to work ok.



Any issues taking a 401 crank down to 2" bearings?  Anyone sell amc rods for 2.1" ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/24/2017 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by beek beek wrote:

Originally posted by dbltrbl dbltrbl wrote:

I built 360 stroker 3 years ago, now maybe 15000 miles on it.

Used 390 crank offset ground to about 3.76 and bored the block to 4.155. Rods are 6.125" long with 2" bearing. Flattop pistons and 291c heads create about 12.5 comp which is good for e85 fuel.

About 11mpg at steady 75 speed with 2.87 rear in Amx. If i would build another one i would use 6" rod and piston with longer skirt but also this combo seems to work ok.



Any issues taking a 401 crank down to 2" bearings?  Anyone sell amc rods for 2.1" ?


There was a long thread about 2.0" vs 2.1" rod journals,
 the sort of consensus was that you're better off with 2.1" if you can, but lots and lots and lots of people have run 2.0" journal 401 cranks with very few problems related to the smaller size.

That said,
 it seems like the Molnar stroker AMC rods are 2.0" only
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