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360. Dizzy

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championc View Drop Down
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    Posted: Oct/24/2017 at 12:47pm
Î. Have a 360 engine in a hot rod I can get it to fire but not run I have changed the distributor to a Mallory single wire from the standard 360 set up I have fuel to the carb floats are set as are the idle jets but just cant get it to run when you release the key from the crank position and. Yes there is power. Getting to the coil in the run position

Help!!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Moffman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2017 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by championc championc wrote:

Î. Have a 360 engine in a hot rod I can get it to fire but not run I have changed the distributor to a Mallory single wire from the standard 360 set up I have fuel to the carb floats are set as are the idle jets but just cant get it to run when you release the key from the crank position and. Yes there is power. Getting to the coil in the run position

Help!!!!!!


I'm a little confused, it sounds like you're saying the motor will fire a couple times but not run? Sounds like you have spark, at least some.

Is firing order correct? Dizzy 180 degrees out?

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/9/93/AMC_firing_order.jpg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Midnight Rambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2017 at 1:12pm
Power to the coil in "run"...did you test the coil?  Don't they draw more current during a start than at a low rpm idle?  Maybe the coil is failing.


Edited by Midnight Rambler - Oct/24/2017 at 1:35pm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2017 at 6:56pm
If it fails to fire at al while cranking but sputters to near life
when you release the "key" IMO it is a grounding issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2017 at 7:54pm
There are two circuits to the ignition. During start the resistance wire to the coil is bypassed by a direct connection from ignition switch power.

If someone already cut or bypassed the resistance lead from the wiring harness no power will run to the coil.

It is possible only the start circuit is working, and your ignition is running from that only.

Check the starter solenoid I terminal for voltage when key ignition is in the on position.

If not it may be a wiring issue within 10 inches of the solenoid connectors, or at the ignition switch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote championc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 5:57am
Hi guys the two ignition wires for run and cranking are in the right position i am thinking that the coil may not be man enough for the job as its not an original AMC coil just an aftermarket coil in the UK I've done away with the ignition module and gone for a single wire twin point mallory distributor for simplicity (how wrong i was there) powered directly from a standard coil set up, my thought is that i may need a high output coil and or change the dizzy again for a single wire HEI i think with built in coil, 

Incidentally whats the "key" IMO Ignition module?  

Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lucas660 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 2:15pm
The key is what is assumed is being used inside the cabin to start the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote raser13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/17/2017 at 6:16pm
Sounds like a dead coil. I had one on my jeep do that. It would crank it over but as soon as you let off the ignition switch it would die. Working just enough to test out as OK when testing with a multi meter. For the cheap coat of a coil I'd start there. I don't know about parts availability in the UK. But I would assume that it would be the same coil that came on V8 fords since AMC used the motor craft distributor originally. So I would think you could get one easy and cheap enough.


I'd also double check the timing at both the distributor and the gears. You may have jumped a tooth or two. Or have the timing out by 180degrees. Or just out enough for it to start with the starter powering the motor. But get killed by backfire as soon as you let off the key.

But really, really, sounds like a dieing coil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcenthusiast Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/18/2017 at 8:24am
My first thought was that the spark timing is retarded -try advancing the spark...

(when the timing is too retarded, it'll fire, but it might not make enough power to keep itself going once the starter is released)

Nah; I don't think it's the coil because it does come to life when cranking...

Along with conversion to capacitive discharge ignition (CDI -aka 'breaker point ignition') you've spliced in a 'ballast resistor' on the 12 volt wire to the coil? (the coil will overheat if there's continuous 12 volts...)

It's easy to check the coil with an inexpensive electrical multi-meter.

Regardless of engine or type of vehicle, you have a diagnostic issue:

Get a Chilton's Repair Manual -they have a great troubleshooting section for this kinda stuff -well worth the price.
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