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2nd Gen Javelin Wiring Diagrams

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kirkwood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kirkwood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 10:58am
The difference in the go pac and non rally pack harnesses is that the non rally pack has an oil warning light and extra wiring for the ammeter. I wouldn't hook up a 50-year old ammeter in my car (i didn't) even with new wires - just asking for a fire. Otherwise you can use the non-rally pack harness by adding a wire for the oil pressure sender. I have done this and it works fine.

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1971 Hornet SC/360 4-speed
1971 Javelin SST 401 4-speed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 4:42pm
Let me ask this since you didn't give any details -
#1 What is your intention with the car? Total stock or does it, or will it have add on's? (electrical that is)
#2 Are keeping the same size alternator? (amps wise)

IMO there's different options depending upon what you want to do with the car.


"It was long ago and it was far away, and it was so much better than it is today" Jim Steinman
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shannock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 6:28pm
My plan for the car is to keep it stock electrically and cosmetically.
I have a complete 401 drive train from a 72' AMX that hasn't been on the road since the early 80's.
I plan on installing that drive train and associated bits into a 71' 304 car.
The 72' drive train has about 72,000 miles on it and the 71' car has about 63,000 miles and the 304 starts and runs great. I plan on rebuilding the 401.
I took all the AMX interior parts out the 72' car in the 80's and they been in my basement ever since.
I feel that instrument cluster should be in better good condition so I'm not too worried about the gauges. I do want the wiring to look stock in case I decide to show it someday.

 
Tom Davies
Rhode Island
1971 Javelin SST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 7:22pm
Some wiring survives far far better than others. i've worked on cars over 30 years old with like-new wiring while I've been into cars with 20 year old wiring that looked like it was from the 1940s.
Environment, heat, light, load, all make a difference. 
I scrapped an 81 Eagle SX4 and salvaged the interior wiring harness and used it in my 82 - there were minor differences I accounted for, but my point - the 81 harness was absolutely perfect. The fuse panel was perfect. There was no green copper, the wires were clean and flexible, it was as if I had gotten wiring that was less than a decade old.
My 82 wiring was nasty in some places........ while other spots were fine. 
I never condemn wiring simply because of age - but I do warn that it's something not to blindly trust.
The harness I took out of that 81 parts car will run me for many many years. 
The under-hood wiring is heavily customized since I swapped in the 4.0

My 73 Javelin is another topic - some wiring isn't bad, some is really bad but the parts that are really bad are mostly the fault of prior owner(s).
Sadly, a harness I obtained from someone to use under the hood of my car isn't worth installing. It's hard and some connections questionable so I'll either have to find another better one or make one myself.
I'll never buy another wiring harness sight-unseen. My bad, I trusted the seller that it was ok. 
I have a feeling the interior wiring is not that great but will find out when I pull the cluster to swap in the AMX gauge set.

By the way-  this means I'll have to modify my stock 73 wiring to handle the extra gauges, tach, etc. - correct?
I'm also going in with the 140 speedometer, tach/clock, and full gauges, like shown here......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 8:52pm
Bill's right. I've seen the same thing with wiring. Some are good and some bad but getting to your situation I see no reason you can't stick with a stock wiring system as long as it's good condition with clean connections. Since you have it all out, if you invest the time to make sure the connectors are clean - or clean them up and possibly coat them with dielectric, you should be fine.

Here's an idea for you with the stock fuse block - put a flat, steel plate on the body where it mounts, then attach a couple of fairly strong magnets to the back of fuse block maybe with a short "handle" of sorts. When you put that wiring in, leave or make some slack in the wires to allow the fuse panel to move down where you can see it so you don't have to break your back trying to replace a fuse. You could pull the panel down for service.
The stock fuse block, as long as the terminals are clean and tight to the fuses, should be just fine for you. IMO I wouldn't hook up the ammeter but again, if the alternator is not higher output than original and the wiring to it is good, there shouldn't be any problems. The problem with rebuilt alternators from an auto parts store is that it will most likely put out more than what it was originally. If it does, it can cook that ammeter. Just something to consider. Hopefully this is helpful.

"It was long ago and it was far away, and it was so much better than it is today" Jim Steinman
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 9:08pm
You can't be sure of what you get with "reman" alternators....... I'd had a few come through my shop and have some on my shelves for parts and as cores and what I've seen makes me say more than ever "never unless I have zero choice". 
Until the advent or use of shunt-type ammeters in cars the load ran through the cabin. Not a great thing, especially with age. 
Even I can't handle the power I used to!! HAHAHA

If the fuse panel is good, connections clean and tight, and you don't have any boo-boos, it's possible you won't have to deal with accessing the fuses. There are special products such as NO-OX that can be used to prevent oxidation of connections and not interfere with conductivity........ (I think I got the name right)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shannock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 8:27pm
Bill, I have a harness from a 72' 6 cylinder, 3-speed manual car that might work for you.
The front parking lights are missing but the wiring is in good shape. Let me know, Tom






Tom Davies
Rhode Island
1971 Javelin SST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71 Javelin AMX O.O. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2018 at 10:30am
Tom:
Nice gage set you have there.  If the faces haven't been restored and the color looks good on the yellow red and orange sections, you should have a nice set.  Look for the burn marks on the back of the housing where the amp wires connect.  Also I've always disconnected my battery when the car sits for any length of time between drives.  I usually do once a week in the summer, so I disconnect the batter neg cable between drives.  No issues after 7 years on the road with a 47 year old rally pac gage set.

Steve
original owner
1971 Javelin AMX 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shannock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2018 at 8:36pm
This is the back of the instrument cluster. I think the amp meter is the lower right terminals. They seem to be OK. I just ordered the TSM so that I'll be able to familiarize myself with how everything is wired.


Tom Davies
Rhode Island
1971 Javelin SST
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