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2nd Gen Javelin Wiring Diagrams

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Shannock View Drop Down
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    Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 6:10pm
I am looking to find the best resource for viewing wiring diagrams.
I have a 71 Javelin with an automatic transmission, and a like new wiring harness.
I'm planning on installing the engine, manual transmission and Go-Pac instrument cluster from a 72 Javelin. I've recently discovered that the 72 wiring harness I have is a 2-piece harness and is not in very good condition. I'd like to use the 71 harness and add whatever wiring is necessary to make it all work. Plus, I'd like to move the fuse block to the glove box.
Thanks, Tom
 

Tom Davies
Rhode Island
1971 Javelin SST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 6:33pm
Sure hate to see a good usable original cut up and spliced for moving the fuse block.

How bad is the 72 harness? May be worth while to modify that over doing the mod to a nice 71 harness.

I always used a TSM for my wiring needs. Being color blind, the new reprinted PDF color scheme diagrams are not worth the upgrade, but you may want to obtain that instead.

The 71 and 72 harnesses are about the same, but automatic will obviously be different over manual, and between the two differing makes of trannies. TC has the MOPAR neutral safety switch connection, and BW uses a GM type selector switch connection.

I would not cobble the 71 to make into a 72, since you are planing on moving the fuse block 6 or more inches into the glove box.

My odd Q is... ever messed around in the glove box? To me once you get your hand in there your blind and limited by movement. Might as well grab newer engine compartment fuse block from newer car and make it work somewhere on the fire wall / fender section near the suspension hump. May need longer extensions, but a bit easier in the long run.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 6:38pm
What 304-dude said.............
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 9:05pm
I'm not sure how you're going to manage to use a factory harness to move the fuse block to the glove box. Confused I replaced my factory fuse block with a Ron Francis block and that was hard enough. If you were doing a hot rod harness, having the fuse block in the worthless glovebox is a good idea to me so no more laying under the dash to see what fuse is bad. Less clutter in the engine compartment and no water to deal with. If I were to rewire my car, that's the way I would go.

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi powered Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 9:21pm
What??? You mean you don't keep your GLOVES in there? Wow what a waste of space.

HAHA  
Hey, some Jeeps had the fuses at the right end of the dash........... 

I'd not use a factory harness for the move - you'll end up actually constructing one anyway and only be using parts and pieces since so much will be different - either much longer, much shorter, or wrapped or bundled differently.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shannock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 10:44pm
OK, I'm not going to bother moving the fuse block. It does seem like a lot of work. I just wish that they didn't put it in such an awkward spot.
And, if I remember correctly, the clutch pedal will have a safety switch, maybe I can use the column mounted neutral switch for that. I'm not sure about the transmission. Does the T-10 have a neutral switch?
The gauge cluster shouldn't be too bad. I think there's oil pressure, amp meter and tachometer.
I'll buy the TSM, Does it cover all the years?
I found example of this online. It's not cheap, do you guys think it's worth it?
Thanks, Tom


Tom Davies
Rhode Island
1971 Javelin SST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 1:37am
i've (foolishly) wired cars from scratch using rolls of wire... fixed factory harnesses.... if you are not looking for stock, a ROn Francis Wiring or Painless pre-made harness is hard to beat. i have NOT used one. but the cost of one of those is less than rolls of quality Alpha wire and all the connectors and crimps. the wires are marked, color coded, come with docs, and modern ATC type fuses. it's absolutely what i'd do next time. if i ever own a regular car again.

think of it... new shiny copper, generous wire guage (not cheapskate factory, not that i blame them), no splices inside the tapeup, real fuse blocks (those 60's and 70's AMC jobs are, bluntly, CRAP), wires with the name of the circuit printed along the length...


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 6:21am
Originally posted by Shannock Shannock wrote:

OK, I'm not going to bother moving the fuse block. It does seem like a lot of work. I just wish that they didn't put it in such an awkward spot.
And, if I remember correctly, the clutch pedal will have a safety switch, maybe I can use the column mounted neutral switch for that. I'm not sure about the transmission. Does the T-10 have a neutral switch?
The gauge cluster shouldn't be too bad. I think there's oil pressure, amp meter and tachometer.
I'll buy the TSM, Does it cover all the years?
I found example of this online. It's not cheap, do you guys think it's worth it?
Thanks, Tom






71 and 72 are very similar very much like 73 and 74 with wiring. The main issues are transmission switch wiring and Go pack wiring over standard.

For myself, most of the missing connections can be made to work by obtaining the right hoods / connectors for the terminals, and wire for the new patch harness.

If you strip the wrapping to re-re-wrap the old 72 harness,you will notice the main wiring is the same and mostly bundled together. I was able to remove alternator, auto transmission wiring and associated console wires without much change to the harness, as a base to add changes for my non stock setup.

To me the factory wires are plenty on gauge, just the bad design for contacts on connections for cars that have worse weather than California. My 73 never had a wiring issue even with a 40 watt car stereo using stock radio wiring. Though I never ran 40 watts, maybe 20 at most.

After time and heat, the wire jacket material gets dry and brittle, along with corrosion eating away at the bare wire at the terminal crimps. Unless you find and patch weak and comprimised areas, a stock harness is always going to be trouble.

As for new is better, its all on how you look at it.

Every newer car has smaller gauge wiring and connectors. Which requires a lot more relays. I have dealt with relays being problematic in heat and freezing conditions. So for the average Joe, troubleshooting can be difficult for those use to just having to replace a fuse time to time.

I have two much newer cars a 2000 Solara, and a 09 Honda Accord. Both have engine bay fuse boxes, and fuse panels in thé kick panels. None are easier than the 71 Javelin at replacing a blasted fuse for the cabin. If any of you reading this, I challenge you to go to a picker and replace any fuse in thé driver side kick panel of a 09 or later Honda Accord, or Toyota. I bet most domestics are that way now as well.

I bet you'd gladly pay a tech to do the job than twist your back out of shape and see a chiropractor.

You can make an older fuse panel be just as good as a new style. Just have to take the time to inspect and clean all connections and wiring. Make repairs as needed, and do a proper job at isolation from the elements. It is not a 2 hour job. So a bit of extra money laid down may be the better option if you have not the time and patience.

Any old style connection can be made to be trouble free by making sure all crimps are good and sealed. I always use a good shrink wrap to cover engine compartment wire crimps on terminals. AMC and others don't. It would save a lot of issues with alternator and battery charge issues. As í have yet to see a single connector compromised at the alternator or regulator on an AMC through the years of picking, even back in the 80's. Stuffing bees wax into the back side to seal the open end of a connector and using electrical sealing grease packed into the mating connectiom will keep it good for long term daily driven use.

Sure hate to see the 71 harness get chopped but its yours and all.

71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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Shannock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Shannock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 8:56am
Thanks, Dude. What you say makes sense. That's why I want to go over the wiring diagrams, so I can make a neat transition from the 72' to the 71'
But I also like what TomJ said. My wiring harness is over 45 years old after all.
There's a company in my town in called Narragansett Reproductions. They make complete wiring harness's for older cars. I know it would be expensive, but I might give them a call and see if they can combine the two years for me. It's worth a try.
Thanks, guys.

Tom Davies
Rhode Island
1971 Javelin SST
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71 Javelin AMX O.O. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/13/2018 at 10:02am
I was able to successfully add the wiring from a 71 go pac to my non go pack gages.  I had some questions as to the main red wire that powers everything, but used the go pac harness to replace that.  The red wire is actually thicker, due to the amp gage being wired directly in line.  After 5 years on the road no wiring issue.  Of course make sure all grounds are good and clean.

Steve
orginal owner
1971 Javelin AMX 
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