258 engine build

The 4.0L exhaust manifolds exit about the same position, right at #5 cylinder, but point in different directions and the shape is different. H.O model is a bit better flowing, but Renix model generally clears better in the Eagle. Here are photos of both:

how well did the hooker headers clear the chassis and trans on the gremlin? Where did you get the headers and what was the part number? Thanks

Ill buy your headers if you are taking them off for good.  I am about to start making my own header and really am dreading it. I have the skill, tools, and resources to build a sick header, but the time is short and I really don't want to....

Edited by forest - Dec/29/2008 at 11:52pm

that sucks, I hate stuff that takes 30hrs to do right... 

There's not a lot of aftermarket engine parts available for AMC, but at least we know the ones that are available are the ones that work! Popularity doesn't always mean "work", but in this case it does. There are 20+ intakes available for SBCs and Fords. There are only a few for AMC, but that makes it easy to pick. Want more than the iron intake but still want to maintain all weather drivability? Get a Performer or an Offenhauser intake. If cold weather driving isn't a concern get the Air Gap. If you want high rpm performance get the Torker.  There are a few other choices for high performance -- Herman Lewis and Indy for example. But you don't have to consider 10 different intakes that do basically the same thing. It's easier to put a working combo together, though I know some like the idea of more choices. Edelbrock prices the AMC intakes only slightly higher than their other make models, so price isn't a big concern. The difference is only due to lower quantities made and sold. I wouldn't be surprised it they make a bit less on the AMC parts than others.

A nice "shorty" style header for the 199/232/258 AMC six would be good -- a one-size-fits-all type. Best bet now is really to get a 4.0L head and use the stock tubular exhaust manifold or a Borla. One of those could be re-worked to fit a 258 head, just not the old model big port heads. Cut the flange off, "massage" the tube ends to fit a 258 flange. A cone shaped "collector" could be fabbed to match the big port heads if you've got the time and skill. It's a thought, anyway! I'd just go with the 4.0L head -- they aren't expensive at pull-a-part yards anyway.