1pc axle ebay

Red Devil wrote: Yes, a water-cooled abrasive cut-off saw is what we had. A hood enclosed the unit to contain water spray. Worked well.

X2. We have a couple at work that we use to cut transmission input shafts and heat treated steel parts that are harder than that axle and they go thru it like butter.

Depends on the heat treatment. Proper induction hardening is key. The weak-link of the stock design is the separate hub, so fixes that issue.

The advantage of the stock design is a tapered roller bearing (Timken Set5) with positive retention (bearing seats against a shoulder on the shaft).

Most after market options use either a Green ball bearing or the Timken Set9 tapered unit bearing (Timken Set9 is slightly smaller OD than stock, so loses the press fit in the housing). Some use the Set5 like stock (Dutchman??). Bearings are held on the shaft with a pressed-on lock ring, so not quite as positive as the stock shaft shoulder ... but haven't heard of issues?

If you're hitting the strip with slicks, go one piece.

Hope this helps,RD.

These axles use ball bearings instead of timken bearings like Moser, Superior etc.  I measured the bearing and collar and drove the inner seal into the housing 1.25 in so that the collar would not rub the seal.  The bearing appears to seat against the lip in the housing and is held in place by the backing plate.  The thrust block or in the case of the twin grip the thrust buttons are removed and also with the two piece (clutch type) twin grip the axles are cut .1 inch longer than the stock axle to insure full contact with the spider gear splines.  This basically does away with the "semi-floating" feature of the stock rear end.

my son and i just installed these into his hornet  used a chop saw just took our time cutting and let them cool over night then filed the ends  fit really well  he is running a spool in his