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199 ci questions

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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2019 at 10:09am
Your version (assuming you put it together...) is a little harder than the factory kit. Have to take yours apart carefully to remove the valve cover. Factory kit goes in from the top through a grommet, just have to take the fitting off the top and lift the valve cover off. But both work, that's the important part! And how often do you take the valve cover off? Shouldn't have to unless there is a major problem since the 199/232/258/4.0 uses hydraulic lifters (196 uses solid, except for the AL version).
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2019 at 10:37am
I remember the Ford Y blocks with those overhead lines and thought they were quite ugly and that is why I kept the line as low as possible. 

Yes it does take a little more work getting the cover off, longer to seal it up. If I ever take a head off one again I'll try and figure out what the problem is. I remember cleaning the head before putting it on, getting oil up the block, and was surprised when it din't make it up through the head. It could be as simple as a problem with the head gasket. Perhaps OP is having the same problem after his overhaul.




Edited by vinny - Feb/10/2019 at 10:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2019 at 6:03am
Probably the passage around that head bolt is sludged up. That's why the head bolt diameter is reduced slightly, to open it up for more oil flow. The better the flow the less likely it is to sludge up. today's oil is less likely to sludge than 1960s-70s oil also, but with the tighter tolerances used now there are still some issues with some vehicles, and they are more touchy to viscosity. Can't just throw in a bit thicker oil if it uses a little oil anymore due to small passages. I still remember when Chrysler started using small passages in their new V-6s in the late 80s/early 90s. 0W-30 and 5W-30 oil was being specified, but many oil change places mostly carried 10W-30 was their cheapest, and that's what many people went with due to cost and "that's what they always used".  Many an engine didn't last long! The Ford Triton would suffer the same fate, but people quickly learned to use the lighter oils. Even my 4.0L wouldn't mind running10W-40 or even 20W-50, though I wouldn't run the thick stuff since it's still relatively low mileage. Could get by with it in the middle of the hot summer though!
Frank Swygert
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