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1979 amc amx cant get rim off

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partsguy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote partsguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2019 at 5:47pm
i just soaked around the hub/lip will let it sit till next weekend,trying not to damaged the rims as i will be selling them,i had the car since 93,tires are only the 2nd set ever put on it,when i got it it had 86 tags on it,it hasnt moved since 95,just a parts car i am finishing taking apart,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXRWB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2019 at 7:58pm
Never use a impact.Have no need for a torque stick.I use a four way lug wrench on the beaters and a clicker torque wrench on the antique cars.None of my brake drums or wheels will ever be stuck on.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turbo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2019 at 8:11pm
Torque of the lug nuts has nothing to do with dissimilar bonding.  Impact on low to get things started then finish by hand.

Edited by turbo - May/12/2019 at 8:13pm
they call me Capt Fun.......!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2019 at 11:03pm
steel wheels often rust/stuck to the raised lip at the center of the brake hub. probably means the tires are ancient! i had this problem only when i lived in Massachusetts (i think).

the 'lugs no lube' etc thing is an OEM decision. it's cheaper and done right, works well enough. it's not a law, or physics.

lugs are fasteners, in a not particularly demanding application. they get sprayed with water and road crap a lot. i treat them like fasteners.

when the wheel studs get too crappy they get replaced, like any other worn 50 year old part. it's work, not money. tedious, hard to identify the right part etc, but no thing particularly expensive or tricky, it's a treasure hunt.

all of my brake hubs are wire-brushed CLEAN, usually painted, NEW lugs (20 yr old lugs are scrap metal). i run a die down the studs so that nuts spin on with two fingers, no burrs. i use nickel antiseize. i've learned to apply about 60 ft/lbs with a 18" breaker bar, extention and socket. i tighten in the correct pattern; finger tight no rattle, then a half turn "snug", then go round again to tighten. it must feel right at each step else i fix it. once gone through once (again, time not money) they stay perfect forever or close enough.

i run steel wheels. dry rusty parts don't work better than clean lubricated ones properly assembled. lubed lugs don't loosen. neither do head bolts. lugs aren't special. and Chrysler, Studebaker, and others were FOOLISH AND WRONGHEADED with the left-hand lug nut nonsense.

what the OEMs do is reliable, and cheap out the door ON NEW PARTS, and critically important for them, its REPEATABLE.

it's now 2019, an antique car five times past it's design life, and we're not dealers charging customers by the book. procedures can and should change to match usage.

1961 roadster american
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