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1974 Javelin - Storage to Street - Where to Start?

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1970390amx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1970390amx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2015 at 6:56pm
Originally posted by dutovia dutovia wrote:

Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:


remove and clean fuel tank blow out and clean fuel lines. and filter
replace fuel pump and rebuild carburetor.
change oil and filter
check and or replace cap rotor plug wires and spark plugs.
check coolant, hoses and or replace same
keep old parts as being stored for 30 years they maybe original and someone restoring one might like to look at original examples.


I know some vehicles have limited access to the gas tank from inside the vehicle when the seats and carpeting are pulled - any such luck here, or is this all from below? I don't have a lift so I'd be dealing with ramps and jacks.

Never thought about keeping the old parts; as hard to find as most AMC parts are, this would seem to be a no-brainer. Thanks! I would, however, assume that there would be no need to hang onto the old lines and wires as they'd probably be too corroded to be of any use, correct?

If old hoses and wires are original they may have markings and such that would be relevant to some one doing a restoration. Original parts have part numbers and may have special hoses, not just run of the mill generic stuff. Like some cars the heater hose has a white line the length or a rib that runs the length. If you look long enough in the project section you will see where people have created stamps to duplicate original markings on hoses master cly 
1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gremlin 72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2015 at 9:37am
I would first take pictures of your car, inside, outside, underside and engine bay. Put them on your computer to think about what you want out of your car. Get costs on every picture for updates. Now you have to figure what you can/want to do on your own(u-tube is a great resource) and what you need to do. It is a simple path for a long term, enjoyable trip for you and your car. I suggest a once and done approach is the safest and cost effective approach. Good luck and enjoy!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 348AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2015 at 6:04pm
Change the plugs cap rotor and points, swap in a new or known good battery put some fresh gas in the tank( a few gallons) and then in the fuel bowls or squirt directly down the bores, and crank it over and see if it starts if it does it will pull the gas in the tank up to the carb and it should stay running even if you need to keep the accelerator depressed slightly until it warms up and you can then check the system for any fuel leaks and repair if needed.

After that is worked out, I'd go right to the brakes; check for leaks and even bleed the lines if there are no leaks. Obviously replace anything leaking or that looks worn. Brakes are easy anyway, so even if you did a full brake system restore it's quite simple with a TSM, even if your not a mechanic. Once it runs and stops your on your way to get it back on the street. You'll get lots of help here if you cant get it started or if you need help with the brakes.

Once you are able to go for a test drive you can observe how the suspension is working and the transmission or any other things that may need attention and THEN plan what you want to do to the car to get it ready for that 401.

Edited by 348AMX - Apr/26/2015 at 6:08pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dutovia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2018 at 8:41pm
So, shortly after these posts I changed jobs which put my restore on hiatus for quite a while. I'm now at a point where I'm able to get my feet wet again :-)

I've decided to go with the 401 build and a Hampton roots blower add-on. What are everyone's feelings on choke styles on the carbs? No choke, auto choke, or manual choke? I don't think I'd like a manual because I really don't want extra cables or a pull knob by the dash. I remember the old days when pumping the gas pedal was required before turning the engine over so I was leaning toward an auto choke hoping that I wouldn't need to do that (I've never used one before).

The car would only get driven to car shows and "Sunday driving" once and awhile during the warmer summer months, but living in Michigan would definitely mean some cold starts on cold mornings once and awhile.

Any thoughts on the auto choke? Would that give an easier start than pumping the pedal? Thanks for any input :-)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mopar_guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2018 at 8:51pm
Originally posted by dutovia dutovia wrote:

Would that give an easier start than pumping the pedal?


That's easy! Fuel injection!! Wink Big smile LOL

"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/04/2018 at 6:24pm
I'll throw my hat in the ring on this one. Since you are going to install a 650-700hp 401 in the car I would start by removing the original drive train, fuel system, motor, rear suspension, etc as none of the stock items will work at this power level. In other words don't spend time or effort on things you won't use. One other thing is you will need appropriate safety gear to run at the strip. Properly setup the car will be that fast. Just something to think about.

Edited by DAMX - Mar/05/2018 at 12:17pm
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