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1974 Javelin - Storage to Street - Where to Start? |
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dutovia 
AMC Fan 
Joined: Jul/16/2012 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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 Topic: 1974 Javelin - Storage to Street - Where to Start?Posted: Apr/19/2015 at 6:24pm |
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Okay, I would love some advice on my situation. I have been a long-time car freak but life (as it usually does) took me on a different path (military, marriage, kids, etc), and my expertise lies in the field of computers and networking. So, that being said, I'm admittedly NOT a mechanic, although I'm not completely clueless. I know there are many people out there that are artists and tremendously skilled in the car field and I love hearing from people that know what they're doing.
My career makes me very analytical and structured, and this is where I'm having issues. I don't know where to begin, I'm probably over-thinking things, and I can't seem to get anywhere!! I've got a '74 Javelin that has been in garage storage for over 30 years (I had it moved to my house so I could start working on it). It ran before being placed there, and now I would like to see it road-worthy again because cars like these deserve to be seen and remembered. As far as I know it's mostly standard and it's packing a 304 with no modifications. My goal is to make this a part-time driver (shows, events, etc) with an occasional trip to the strip for some significant e.t.'s. I would like to drop a 401 in place of the 304, possibly add a blower (Hampton caught my eye), and then deal with trans, suspension, and other modifications as necessary. I want this to be a "fun" car, so I'm not horribly concerned about concourse restoration but I want it to look great. Where do I start? It doesn't run now, so do I rebuild the 304 first just to get it running, or should I drop in the 401 to begin with? Fuel lines, brake lines, gas tank, brakes, all these things need to be addressed and I keep spinning around trying to figure out the first step. Also, like I mentioned, I'm far from a mechanic so most of this work would have to be done by different shops and I'll pick up and learn more as I move along with the project. Driving me crazy  - but I would like to hear some opinions and I welcome all criticism as well. I would appreciate solid answers; by the same token if I need to provide more info, I'm always willing - I could use the help and I appreciate people taking the time to guide me. Thanks!!Here are a few pictures of the car being relocated. Pretty good shape in my opinion, but still going to be a lot of hard work to make this road worthy and something to look at: http://home.comcast.net/~dutovia/pwpimages/Jav01.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~dutovia/pwpimages/Jav02.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~dutovia/pwpimages/Jav03.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~dutovia/pwpimages/Jav04.jpg I've got a starting budget of about $10-15K and the rest will be more like "a little bit here, a little bit there." Thanks again, folks! |
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1970390amx
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Joined: Jul/11/2008 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 3314 |
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Posted: Apr/19/2015 at 6:57pm |
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If you are going to make significant changes this list may change. but first i would
remove and clean fuel tank blow out and clean fuel lines. and filter replace fuel pump and rebuild carburetor. change oil and filter check and or replace cap rotor plug wires and spark plugs. check coolant, hoses and or replace same keep old parts as being stored for 30 years they maybe original and someone restoring one might like to look at original examples. Car should run at this point. do not drive yet check brakes. I would rebuild or replace wheel cylinders calipers and master cylinder just because. check brake shoe linings and pads for condition replace if doubtful. check rubber lines for cracks and brittleness. repacking wheel bearings would be good idea as would be servicing the transmission and differential. when checking brakes I would do a complete inspection of the ball joints and suspension bushings and would recheck after driving for a short period of time. dry rubber bushings have a tendency to fall apart fast. after looking at pictures you should inspect underside of car for rust in floor and frame rails. after car is running I would have rust in car looked at and fixed even if you do not paint entire car at this time. You will be amazerd at how fast the money goes.
Edited by 1970390amx - Apr/19/2015 at 7:40pm |
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1970 390 4speed Bittersweet shadow mask AMX
1970 Amx missing most everything, or in a box |
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: Apr/19/2015 at 7:23pm |
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All cars that sit too long have dry rot rubber and moisture in the brake lines that can ruin your attempts at spot fixing.
I purchased my 1st javelin as a runner, yet always found something that proper maintenance would have made easier for repairs. Don't trust your mechanic... I did back in the 80s and got bit by the lack of knowing how to properly install a timing cover. After 500 miles my distributor jumped time from premature wear. Expect rebuilding breaks from the ground up, and steering / suspension components, wiring fixes and engine accessories. I've had regulators, and alternators go as they are not that powerful with only 35amp rating. The cost of building an AMC engine is not much more than any other... Just the parts you choose will be make or break you in the long run. Some say a 360 will be more than enough on the street, being stroked to 383/390. Getting a 401 will be the most costly part of staring a build over getting a forged crank and 360 block. I had fun with my 73 with a 304 half length dual exhaust, Offy spread bore 360 with a 650 holley. We are talking near 4800 RPM 1st gear at 55mph merging. I had 2.76 Mopar rear at the time. There are a lot of ways to build and modify we have a great amount of info on just about everything in our sections. Edited by 304-dude - Apr/19/2015 at 7:28pm |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Bruce Clarkson
AMC Addicted
Joined: Feb/09/2013 Location: New Bern, NC Status: Offline Points: 538 |
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Posted: Apr/21/2015 at 7:07pm |
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When I put by 67 Ambassador on the road, I flushed the fuel lines, brake lines, changed oil, rear-end lube, filters and (surprisingly) it started OK. It needed a rebuild badly but that waited.
The brakes were checked and the fronts needed shoes. That was critical. The trans worked OK so we left it alone for a while. Also critical, the suspension bushings were dangerously shot. Later came door seals, seats, engine overhaul, etc. but the above got it on the road where we could enjoy it even if we were then in the "fill up the oil and check the gas" mode. Of course, "your mileage may vary." Bruce Clarkson |
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Bruce Clarkson
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amcglass
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Joined: Dec/11/2011 Location: NW Ohio Status: Offline Points: 2588 |
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Posted: Apr/21/2015 at 8:11pm |
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Javmanpres
BBG Mark Donohue 401 74 Jav/AMX 71 Matador 2dr sedan delivery wagon 1902 Rambler Runabout 70 T/A Javelin |
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GreggR
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Joined: Aug/21/2009 Location: Painesville, OH Status: Offline Points: 1267 |
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Posted: Apr/22/2015 at 9:11pm |
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It's not sexy... but if it doesn't stop and turn, it shouldn't go fast.
Get it running and make it safe for parts-runs and local look-sees... Once you get past the "let's built a motor" mentality, the stopping/turning idea makes sense. Use the computer/IT analogy... if the system isn't secure, blazing download speeds don't mean a darned thing... Good luck and keep us posted. Remember... it's YOUR car, suggestions from us are fine... but you have to do the work, so make it what you want... Good luck...
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No matter where you go, there you are... Buckaroo Banzai.'75 Hornet Hatchback
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70 Donohue 390
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Joined: Jul/11/2007 Location: S. Oregon Status: Offline Points: 4338 |
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Posted: Apr/22/2015 at 10:12pm |
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1. Purchase a TSM and read, read & then read some more.
2. Purchase cleaning materials & gloves (dirt,chemical & oil/grease resistant) 3. Initiate YOUR plan in writing 4. Keep your plan simple and follow what Gregg said above. PS: the advanced search function here on The Forum is the key to unlocking ANY questions you may have. There are lots n lots of great people here with a ton of experience. |
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67 Rogue 290 Convert
70 BBO 390 5 Speed Javelin-under construction |
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dutovia
AMC Fan
Joined: Jul/16/2012 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: Apr/23/2015 at 3:21pm |
I know some vehicles have limited access to the gas tank from inside the vehicle when the seats and carpeting are pulled - any such luck here, or is this all from below? I don't have a lift so I'd be dealing with ramps and jacks. Never thought about keeping the old parts; as hard to find as most AMC parts are, this would seem to be a no-brainer. Thanks! I would, however, assume that there would be no need to hang onto the old lines and wires as they'd probably be too corroded to be of any use, correct? |
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dutovia
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Joined: Jul/16/2012 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: Apr/23/2015 at 3:41pm |
You know, just after these few posts it does make sense to get this thing running first rather than try and drop something new into it. I know it may seem obvious to others, but I was really spinning my wheels wondering which way to go (nice analogy, by the way). Looks like a lot of work ahead, but of course since when is anything worthwhile easy to get to, right? |
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dutovia
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Joined: Jul/16/2012 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Posted: Apr/23/2015 at 3:48pm |
I do believe there was a manual stashed in the trunk under a bunch of rags. Can't remember if it was AMC "general" or Javelin-specific. Looks like I'll be hitting eBay to see what I can find. Thanks! |
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1970390amx wrote: