Project Odin Electrical Overhaul (1973 Javelin)

I am surprised billd did not state a comment about the fuses in your diagram. He is a stickler for details. Never use a fuse greater than 10% of the total load of the system. It protects more than the wiring and load itself.

I'd put a 135AMP fuse between the battery for charge and run a 60Amp fuse for stock wiring on a two or more terminal fuse block with what ever separate fuses are needed for other loads you may add above the factory options, like an audio amp and stereo.

A 150 amp alternator is not perfect. There is wasted current in its operation. On average a 150 amp alternator will produce about 135 Amos at best, and above normally used engine RPMs.

Your stock wiring cannot handle more than 60 amps total through it.

Now peeps may say what are you doing with 150 Amps? Well the only reason you should is if you need higher than stock current at lower RPM use. The current ramp changes drastically for high amp alternators.

The main difference between stock 35 amp vs a 55 amp one, is that you get more usable current at idle or just above idle, for police and severe duty use.

Yes it is nice to have a more simple and trouble free charging system, by upgrading to modern designs. But no system that can drop in is going to be 100% more reliable than stock.

The key with stock is the connections between battery, alternator and regulator. The old style connections are more open to the environment than newer modern types. Thus trouble spots that need cleaned and properly maintained time to time.

At the time of purchase, my 73 Javelin, back in 84 had only 10 years of daily use, but did not have its original regulator and alternator. After a few troubles with charging, i found that the alternator connections at the harness were easily contaminated and caused premature corrosion. Once corrected, i never had an issue. Just not so obvious as everything seemed simple enough, yet moisture and driving environment can do so much even in California where it ran 95% of its life.

Here's the thread I did when I used a Motorcraft alternator. http://theamcforum.com/forum/motorcraft-alternator-upgrade_topic39960_post363799.html?KW=motorcraft+alternator#363799

If you plan on high current at lower RPMs the baffled fab will move more air through it for cooling. I think all 2000 on up alternators have dual fans. One up in the front case and the other in the rear case. In the past 10SI had the improved heavy duty fan for police and HD systems, but as time went on, newer designs allowed more efficient and smaller packages, so incorporating a push / pull fans for heavy duty use or high current under low RPM will keep thermal runaway from effecting the electronics efficiency, causing premature failure under load.

There is a 75 to 78 V8 aluminum bracket setup and a late Jeep Sanden A/C bracket setup to allow use of GM alternators. I think but feel Billd may know better... The CS130 may fit with minor mod to the CS130 case.

It's been a long time, but one of our regulars has the aluminum cradle bracket setup, and may have more info on what Alternator he is running.

I have a modified Ford police alternator rated at 145 amps, only because I am using a 15% under drive pulley. The police version is 15% over driven for high current at idle.

With a 50 amp alternator being under driven, city driving would not charge my battery, unless I go about in first gear and keep my RPMs above 2000 at stops, and probably over heat in the summer.

I think my biggest concern with an external regulator and alternator would be the availability of parts, especially on the road. It's still working enough right now, but the old wires are extremely sketchy.