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1973 Gremlin Project.... "The Demise of Sanity" |
Post Reply | Page <1 3536373839 101> |
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BrotherBamc
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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Couldn't leave it alone. I didn't like what I was feeling. So, I took it all down again.
Found a low spot on the roof. One more block and primer the body should be good to go. Next up is the rest of it. |
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Rebel Machine
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Western Il Status: Offline Points: 5118 |
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Looking really good! -Steve-
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Ollie
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/17/2012 Location: Brandon, MS Status: Offline Points: 2801 |
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Question for you BrotherBamc.......
Tell me more about the black you have sprayed over the primer. I know it is for block sanding to check for low and high spots. I have never used it and I might try it. What is it called? What brand do you like? Is it spray can? Compatible with urethane primer? Do you have to sand it all off? I would think one can goes a long way.......... I just use my hand and a rag but nothing wrong with new technology. Having AMC Fun, Ollie
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1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD 1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior" 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd |
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BrotherBamc
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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Ollie...
It's just cheap flat black primer in a rattle can. They call it guide coat. When I first started this body work, I knew absolutely nothing and I couldn't find anyone in my home town that wanted to paint my car. Except for one place and they wanted a 10K deposit and a 6 month wait. So, I went to youtube and found this channel called DIY Automotive School. With my friend Pete and Minni, the bodyshop girl. When I first started watching this guy, I was like, who the heck is this guy. He's got a mouth on him for sure, but his tips and tricks are spot on and a really huge help. Especailly if you have no clue at what you are doing like I was. In this video he explains the use of using guide coat, but he uses it over bondo but its the same as using it over primer also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3KiFVvDd_E&t=1017s I know the rag and hand trick also. That's how I found the low spot on my roof when I was wiping the dust accumulation off the top of the car. Another trick that I found that is a way cheaper route, that I learned from him and his videos is to use rubbing alcohol instead of high dollar degreaser to wipe everything down prior to painting. I use 91% rubbing alcohol that you get at wallyworld for like 1.25 a quart. Works great and is cheap. Use a clean microfiber towel and alcohol. Microfiber helps grab the loose stuff and the alcohol helps with getting the grease and what ever else off. And when you use a microfiber towel, you can tell where any over spray, or any rough spots are as the over spray or rough spots will grab the towel. I have noticed, through trial and error that your primer may look smooth, but with the microfiber towel if it grabs at all, it's rough and will need some attention with some sandpaper. On this particular session, I used 220 grit. The next session I will use 320 grit, then if I feel that it needs another coat and block sand I will use 400 grit. Thanks Steve..!! Now the trick is to get the rest of the parts to look this good..!!! I have the fenders, hood and doors to do also. |
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Ollie
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/17/2012 Location: Brandon, MS Status: Offline Points: 2801 |
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Interesting.
I will go to the 91% alcohol. The tar, wax grease remover is about $25 a gallon. I will need more before I am finished. I started to work in a body shop, owned by a good friend of my father, as a young boy of 12-13 years old. I started as a broom operator. My boss really liked me, maybe I was the son he didn't have, and he taught me a lot. My Daddy went thru pure heck getting me to finish high school as i was painting on commission making the same money as the family man working next to me. Its basically the same steps but the materials have changed drastically. I too can't afford those $10,000 paint jobs. Found this...http://summitracing.com/parts/smm-38203....about the same price as cheap spray primer Basic fact is the more you rub....the better it will look...........Its all about prep Having AMC Fun, Ollie
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1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD 1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior" 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd |
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BrotherBamc
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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Ok...
I had to go back through my own thread to see just how many coats I now have on this and everything else. By my count, I have at least 4. Maybe 5.? Still have the front valence to finish up, a run of primer in my rear panel and I will be done with this for the time being. Then I'll have to come up with some extra room. And I have an idea. |
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BrotherBamc
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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I really dislike it when people flake out on you. I guess you could say it's not a really big deal, but sometimes I just don't understand things I guess.
Long story, short version. I got in contact the with the school (LSCS) that was going to put the final paint on this. And, I guess there was a "misunderstanding" between us. The instructor wanted the car as a roller. I said, "it is a roller". See the little wheels on the rotisserie...?? He didn't find that too funny I guess. He wants it pretty much assembled and that's not what I want. So much for a base clear paint job that I wanted. Original plan was for me to paint everything in my garage except for the outside of the car, in pieces, and the class room would paint the outside. I would do the assembly. Not going to happen. Anyways, this is the plan that I have to use. I rolled the car up on its side and pushed it as far as I could to one side of my garage. My garage is only 24 feet long, by 19 feet wide. And of course I've got the normal stuff/junk up against the walls. Not a lot of room, but I think I've got enough room to paint the doors, hood and fenders. Then find safe storage for the painted parts and then tackle the body. That's it..!! I brought in a door the other day to see how it really was, and both doors are good to go for a cover up of color. But, before I do that, I did this... Now, I am not sure if this was the "proper" sound deadening stuff, but this is what I have been using. I used it on the roof and I am going to use it everywhere that I can reach. The trick is that everything needs to be clean and wiped down really-really good, or it doesn't stick all that well. I use the 91% alcohol and wipe everything down not only once, but a couple of times. I found this at the junk store (Goodwill) to help smash it down. Used gently on the inside of the doors and it worked really well.. The paint that I am going to use is acrylic enamel single stage. Wish me luck..!! |
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mrblatzman
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/01/2008 Location: Alabama CSA Status: Offline Points: 2154 |
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Is that "stuff" you are lining the doors with a porous foam material? Moisture could get trapped in it if it is and stay moist for long periods of time...Please don't find this critical, just don't want you to create a problem down the line...Bob in Alabama
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Thankyou....Bob
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Ollie
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/17/2012 Location: Brandon, MS Status: Offline Points: 2801 |
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I too am not excited about that insulation. That's the stuff from Lowes, with the gray backing?
I use a building insulation called Low E. You can glue it in with contact cement and it forms and lays down very easy. I see it sold on the internet in amounts to do a car. Having AMC Fun, Ollie
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1966 American Convertible -- "The Rambler"..SOLD
1974 Postal Jeep -- "Rapid Delivery"...SOLD 1969 Rambler 220 post car--"Road Warrior" 1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0L, auto, 2wd |
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BrotherBamc
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/22/2009 Location: Lewiston Status: Offline Points: 2248 |
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I thought of that also Bob and I appreciate the concern.
So what I did was go and find some all weather gorilla duct tape. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Weather-Waterproof-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B07GRJ8L55/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1B1Y60YDLJHXO&keywords=gorilla+duct+tape+heavy+duty&qid=1550890330&s=gateway&sprefix=gorilla+duct%2Caps%2C243&sr=8-5 I thought about using this, but I kinda think that this would of been a little over kill. Over kill cuz the car will never see harsh weather. It will be garaged it's whole life (hopefully) and the rest of mine. And if I get caught in the rain, I think that the car could be difficult to drive. I've actually been looking at an enclosed trailer to trailer it around in. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-4612502-Waterproof-Patch-Black/dp/B07HSKRYQW/ref=sr_1_16?crid=25BP6CG05OOAX&keywords=gorilla+tape&qid=1550890551&s=gateway&sprefix=gorrilla+%2Caps%2C278&sr=8-16 Every seam I put a piece of this on and then rolled it with the roller the best that I could. I guess what I was thinking of is if water gets in, you'd want to keep it out of the seams and edges. I've seen that stuff that Ollie is talking about. My problem is that I'm not any good with contact cement and I end up with nothing but a big wad of crap. |
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