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1966 amc ambassador frame rail repair

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1966 Canadian View Drop Down
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    Posted: Mar/21/2019 at 6:13pm
hello everyone I recently purchased a 1966 amc ambassador 2 door hard top . It has some rust in most normal areas that need repair but have found poking around a hole in the drivers floor and the frame rail underneath. Does anyone have any pointers on the best way to repair the front rails I have never repair a unibody frame rail and any advice would be much appreciated. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mixed up Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/22/2019 at 12:16am
you will get many ways to repair frame rail properly  I often will cap the area extending way beyond the rusted parts using plug weld and other weld areas for strength or try to duplicate the rail assembly and replace it altogether but keep in mind the car must be level and  it suspension must be loaded to assure proper alignment of frame so its not twisted in any way make sure doors open properly and gaps a consistent or you may chose to make frame ties for extra strength if you are novice you might consider getting a good welder fabricator  to do the work some wont do it because of liability good luck on the project  keep a rambler alive    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/22/2019 at 10:34am
If you can find a complete replacement section, then drilling and cutting the welds and re-weld it in the factory places with E7018 or equivalent weld filler.
Replacing just a section is more difficult from a structural point of view. As mixed-up stated, replace the section but also put in backings and plug weld them over a longer length.
Without pictures an specific locations it is hard to just generalize.
We used to extend heavy truck frames and  weld in a replacement section and then stitch length of the frame rail top and bottom an insert (1.5x height of the frame at each end). The insert was also bolted, # each side of the weld was the height -2 of the frame i.e. a 10" frame got 32 bolts per side.
Vertical welds on the insert were a definite NO. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1966 Canadian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 8:02am
What years and models would have the same front left frame rails I know of a yard with a few amcs including a 65 ambassador wagon 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 4:33pm
From what I can "read", 63 through 66 large car AMC's should all be the same so the 65 Wagon is a good donor (take a measuring tape to ensure).
 67 had a redesign and nothing to specify, but wheel length changed and minor width, but what was changed is not clear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 7:07pm
The problem with buying lower parts from a junk yard is that most places just let the cars sink into the ground,  and the tires go flat also.   That usually ends up with the lower frame right on the ground and just as rusty as what you've already have,  maybe even worse.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1966 Canadian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 8:13pm
The wagon was stripped of its interior and was placed on top if another car. I have not looked at it too well but it looked like a decent solid car before someone started selling parts off of it  I need that whole back section too where the gas tank straps to as its rotted . It all sounds not good but really the car is over all very solid just these two areas and a few stops here and there and the top of the fire wall where the wiper motor is is not great but I'm not afraid of a challenge 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/23/2019 at 9:01pm
If taking on the challenge, then I would suggest taking the whole and strip the sheet metal from the subframe members. This way you know the attachment points and have a good idea of were to remove the subframe from your car without a lot of extra work.
Still a lot of work, but if your up to the challenge then go for it. 
If at all possible, your car has locating holes from the original assembly line fabrication. These can be used to assure square, straight, level when welding up the donor subframe.
Fabricating a square tube "line frame" to attach the sudframe members to speeds up the work and brings "factory/restoration" quality.
Costs a little more $, but saves time, effort and gets it right. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/25/2019 at 5:55am
63-66 are virtually the same body, Classic and Ambo, but the 65 -66 Ambo got a wheelbase extension between the firewall and suspension crossmember. If the rust is in that area you will need the repair pieces from a 65-66 Ambo. Body style doesn't matter, so that junked wagon would make a fine donor. Get the yard to torch a larger than needed section out, then drill the spot weld from that, easier to get to! Of course that still leaves doing it the hard way on the car being repaired! Doing the junker first does give you the upper hand -- you know where all the welds are after that.
Frank Swygert
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