1964 Rambler American engine swap

The good news is it's a 64. So you have a wide choice of engines -- any small block V-8 you might want, but don't forget modern V-6s and even fours if you just want a cruiser. As noted, a Jeep 2.5L (even the last MPFI model will fit the 64) will have as much power as the old 196. Not quite the low speed torque, but should still drive about the same as the 196... but a bit spunkier, especially with a T-5. I wouldn't use the carbed four, but the TBI or MPFI would be great -- and not to hard to swap in the electronics. Get the whole vehicle if possible, or at least access to it, then pull the wiring harness with everything attached, and lay under the hood the way it came out. Works the same with a 4.0L. I'd try to get a donor vehicle no matter what engine you put in, and get the trans with the engine to make things easier.

With a 4.0L or a 199/232/258 you will need to move the radiator forward a bit. That's done by having the brackets swapped left to right and removing the spacer between radiator and hood latch. A welding or radiator shop can do that -- the brackets are silver soldered to the tanks. For a V-8 or V-6 (and of course a four) you won't need to do that. The four or V-6 might need an electric fan on the radiator because the engine is a bit further back, but that's an easy install.

Mounting the engine is less fab work than you'd think! That you have the 196 is a plus there. You don't need to swap crossmembers, though that is a great way if you use a 199/232/258. As noted, 64-69 American and 70-83 Gremlin/Hornet/Concord/Spirit front crossmembers all interchange. But it's not necessary. I used 2"x3" sections of rectangular tubing about 5" long between 258 motor mounts and the 196 crossmember. I drilled and bolted the sections to the mounts on the motor, then lowered it in place, marked the holes where the 196 mounts bolted to the CM, then drilled and tapped for 3/8" fine thread bolts. Use fine thread as the tubing is only about 1/8" thick. I also used loc-tite and lock washers.. been in there 14 years and stayed put in one hard wreck (T-boned about 18 months after putting motor in my first 63 Classic -- used same motor and mounts in #2, 14 years in it).  Lower engine in place and check to make sure 2" is right -- you might need a bit more. You need at least 1/4" between the CM and oil pan. Any rear sump engine should mount in a similar fashion, not just the AMC six.

You will of course need to change to a transmission to match the engine. A bit of modifying to the trans CM will be needed to fit a mount, you'll have to see what you need for the trans you use. It's not hard to make a complete new CM if necessary.

You can have a driveshaft made to fit your original rear axle if you take the shaft off. Don't know that you want to do that because the pinion seal for the "big nut" axle is impossible to find. It's an AMC specific part, and hasn't been used since 1965. The AMC 15 is otherwise stronger than most here want to admit. It will hold up to a small block with street tires for a cruiser. I wouldn't go drag racing with it, but it would last a while even then... depends on how much power and how good your traction control is. The more with either the shorter time the axle would last. But for a cruiser? It would be fine and I wouldn't change it.

That said.. early Ranger axles are about the right width with no mods. That would be pre 93 axles. The 8.8" didn't come in until 1990, and was only used with 4.0L V-6 engines and in commercial chassis -- it's hard to find in pre 95 models. The 7.5" more commonly found in the early (all 83-92) Rangers is plenty strong even for a V-8 in a cruiser. It's about the same strength as an AMC 15. Again, I wouldn't hesitate to run a stock small V-8 in front of it just for driving around with street tires -- just wouldn't put on cheater slicks and take it to the drag strip. That said, a pre 93 Ranger would be an excellent engine/trans/axle donor. Everything you need in one package, and no narrowing the axle. A 2.3L or 2.5L four would be great, just a bit more power and a lot spunkier. The pre 93 Ranger axle is 56.5" wheel surface to wheel surface. In contrast, 93+ is 58.5", Explorer is 59.5".  You can find all the Ranger axle info you can stand at www.therangerstation.com -- tech section (and on engines and trannys).


Edited by farna - Oct/24/2017 at 7:11am

The more thought you put into it ahead of time (planning!), the better. I bought a Jag IRS for mine and thought about how I wanted to install it for several days as I replaced seals and bearings. When I went to put it in it was a one day job because of that. My 4.0L engine swap went in in a weekend -- another weekend for the wiring and I was off. 

just throwing this out and, no offence, it may be I little bizzare for what you want but.......how about a mazda rotary?

The Jeep 4 cyl sounds good, or I would even consider a 4 cyl from another brand. V-6 would also work. I think an AMC V-8 is a bit tight to put in that space, especially if you are not an experienced fabricator. You might also enjoy the extra space for a brake booster and P.S.

Will a Gremlin V8 crossmember bolt up to a 1965 Rambler American that originally had a 232 cu.in. I bought bulltear motor mounts before I knew they would not work.
Thanks