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1964 Rambler 990-H

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Exzion View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exzion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2011 at 6:53pm
Update:

I've put a little more thought into the characteristics of the torque-tube type suspension setup under my rambler.  If my math and my constants for the radius, and total suspension travel are correct, I get that during the full swing of my suspension the rear end assembly is going to try to move to the right by .9".  I would like to account for this by setting the car at ride height and with an adjustable bar (more on this later) set the rear-end on center.  Does anyone see any unforeseen issues with this approach?

My idea for the bar is pretty simple.  Two Heim joints and a piece of DOM tubing with two threaded inserts on either end.

Any foreseeable issues?


Edited by Exzion - Feb/16/2011 at 6:54pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2011 at 9:00pm
My first thought is hiems are noisy and wear fast on the street.
Otherwise the bar should lay flat at level and it seems you have firm handle on what is needed!

Go for it!


Edited by Wrambler - Feb/16/2011 at 9:01pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2011 at 9:38am
At factory ride height the rear axle should be about centered, and only moves about 1/4" to the left or right during normal suspension movement. Assuming that, with bags it would move about 3/4" to the right (passenger side) sitting on the bump stops with air bags.

You might want to just make up a Watts Link for the rear. That would keep it centered at all times (except for extreme up/down movement, but that would require going well over the normal suspension travel). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt%27s_linkage.

This one would be easy to modify to fit the Rambler -- just alter the ends of the crossmember (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-20505/). Wouldn't be too hard to make one up, or build a crossmember and use the universal kit from Speedway (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Watts-Link,3398.html?sc=WGB&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=GoogleBase -- would still need to make the axle mounts though).  Other kits mount to the diff cover, but that's harder to do than the crossmember center mount.






Edited by farna - Feb/17/2011 at 9:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exzion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2011 at 10:23am
I had looked into making a custom Watt's linkage for the rambler, but I really don't plan on driving it at any other height than ride-height.  The math seems to indicate that over 9.25" of travel the rear will move .9" towards the passenger side, Given that the bar does in-fact measure 43.25" long.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2011 at 10:45am
I never did the math. When I used a Jeep Commanche axle in my 63 Classic there was 3/4" between the wheel well edge and tire. With a light load (couple front seat passengers, 70-80 pound kid in back) there were no problems. We packed up for a long trip with luggage for all three of use for a three day weekend plus some stuff for a car show (about like luggage for a week) and the left tire scrubbed every time we hit a bump on I-10 between MS and TX (which is an undulating stretch of interstate!). It wasn't cutting the tire, just scrubbing a little. It could have been moving over 0.9", but I didn't think so. Having never done the math, but thought enough to turn the inner lip up, it may very well have moved that far. I'll trust your math!

With the stock axle it's not a problem. The Commanche axle is around 3" wider than the stock axle.  So it depends on your tire width/wheel backspace as to whether it will scrub or not. I was running 7" wheels with 3-3/4" backspacing, 1/4" more than a standard 7" wheel (which would be centered at 3-1/2"), 205/70R15 tires. I was using the stock rear springs, standard six cylinder wagon.


Edited by farna - Feb/17/2011 at 10:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exzion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2011 at 11:02am
I want to run a pretty aggressive width/offset.  That said, I am going to have to do something about the side to side movement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2011 at 10:32pm
Well, a Watts Linkage will be about the only answer. A 7.5" wheel is about the largest practical size for the stock wheel well without modification. With a Watts Linkage an 8" wheel will fit, but you can't get too big with the tire - it will be tight!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exzion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/25/2011 at 10:48pm
Update:

Air-ride management electronics are around 90% complete.







1989 Toyota MR2 - Sold
1988 Toyota MR2 - Sold
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2000 Audi A4 1.8TQMS
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1965 Rambler Marlin - Parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/26/2011 at 8:26am
Nice wiring job!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Exzion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/05/2011 at 10:33pm
Today's Progress.  Upon review it seems that my father didn't take any pictures when I was sandblasting,  That said everything that is black was sand blasted.










1989 Toyota MR2 - Sold
1988 Toyota MR2 - Sold
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo
2000 Audi A4 1.8TQMS
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
1965 Rambler Marlin - Parts
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