1963 classic aluminum 196

  This car has a straight stick if I remember ?

Pulling the engine from a head bolt won't be a problem even with the AL block. It's not that flimsy, and you're just lifting the weight of the engine (and maybe the trans). You might want to use a shorter bolt than a head bolt to keep the chain close to the block. That puts the least strain on the block. Or just use one of the accessory mounting bosses up front and a bell housing bolt in the back May need longer bolts for those.

The trans can stay on the engine or come out with it -- your choice. If you're doing this all by yourself I'd leave the trans in, if you can get to the upper bell housing to engine bolts. With the head off I think you can, with the head on it's harder. Remember that -- put the head on AFTER the rest of the engine is in if it looks like it would be hard to get to those bolts. That also reduces the mass you have to move around to get it back in -- a big help if doing it without good help!

For an auto car remover the bolts to the torque converter and leave the converter with the trans. Easy enough to pull the engine that way.

On a manual car you will have to be able to move the engine forward 3-4 inches before pulling to clear the input shaft and clutch -- the clutch stays on the bell housing. You will need some help getting it back in as the splines need to line up. Jack one tire up and put a jackstand under it and put the trans in gear (any gear). Then a helper can turn the jacked up tire to line up the splines as you push back on the engine. That's the best way on a torque tube car -- don't have to move the axle or disconnect the torque tube.

Hey JT,

I know how you feel: I just bought a '63 Rambler Classic 660 and was barely able to get her home. She runs hot really quickly but I love this car (once I get running)! I don't know the first thing about mechanics but am hoping it's just a thermostat as I haven't seen any smoke coming out or any leaks under the car. I feel like I'm kinda lost on this so any advice would be really appreciated! I'd love to get a rebuild but I keep getting quotes around $3,800-$3,500 and I know this 195 engine isn't THAT complicated.

I don't say this often: you're a godsend, Farna! Thanks for the good advice you've been posting- I've been reading a couple of your other posts also. My spouse is saying "crate motor!" but I'm a purist and would like to keep it close to original if it isn't so expensive. Any ideas- rebuild on stock vs. dropping a crate motor in there?

I posted about a 232 in another thread. I'd do that before putting another brand crate motor in. A lot of people ditch the 196 just because, but for a weekend cruiser it's fine. You might be able to find a rebuilder who has a pre 72 232 ready to go, but I doubt it. Most will be 72+.

Before you decide to swap anything other than a pre 72 199/232 read the thread on rear end swaps in 56-66 torque tube cars (http://theamcforum.com/forum/rear-end-swap-5666-classic_topic11214.html). That is what will be required to put anything other than another 196 or a pre 72 199/232 in. It's not as simple as dropping in a crate motor -- you have to change the entire driveline (engine, transmission, dirve shaft [torque tube], and rear axle) AND build a rear suspension as well. It' not too difficult to do in your driveway or garage if you hire the welding out or have a buddy come by to weld for you, but it's not a simple bolt-in job either. The 199/232 would be a relatively simple bolt-in job.