1962 rambler classic wagon won't shift into gear

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Hey everyone,
I have a 1962 Rambler Classic Wagon with the aluminum 196. Right now I can't get it to move anywhere because it won't shift into gear (Forwards or backwards). It is the push button automatic transmission. I am not a mechanic, but willing to learn. When I push the button to go into forward, it makes a loud tinny rattling noise and doesn't shift. When I was driving it one day it slipped out of gear and I was unable to get it back into gear, it would only make that noise. Please help and thanks in advance.

Fluid level is normal, but ATF type F fluid was added to what was in there and I am not sure if that is the right fluid since I can't find any ATF type A fluid.

Edited by TheGoodLife - Feb/11/2018 at 4:38pm

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TheGoodLife Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Jun/18/2015 Location: Babylon, NY Status: Offline Points: 22	Post Options Post Reply Quote TheGoodLife Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 1962 rambler classic wagon won't shift into gear Posted: Feb/11/2018 at 4:01pm
	Hey everyone, I have a 1962 Rambler Classic Wagon with the aluminum 196. Right now I can't get it to move anywhere because it won't shift into gear (Forwards or backwards). It is the push button automatic transmission. I am not a mechanic, but willing to learn. When I push the button to go into forward, it makes a loud tinny rattling noise and doesn't shift. When I was driving it one day it slipped out of gear and I was unable to get it back into gear, it would only make that noise. Please help and thanks in advance. Fluid level is normal, but ATF type F fluid was added to what was in there and I am not sure if that is the right fluid since I can't find any ATF type A fluid. Edited by TheGoodLife - Feb/11/2018 at 4:38pm

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 6:23am
	You really need a TSM for your car, or for any 58-62 big car (push button shifter). Sounds like either the cable is broke or the shifter out of adjustment, or the link inside the trans has come loose. Don't know if it will come loose from a bad cable or misadjusted shifter -- shouldn't. The link could be broke. Right now I suggest you drain the trans, take off the pan, and see if the linkage moves when you push the button in gear. Take a good look where the cable goes into the trans when you take the pan off. Then push a button to put it in gear (or neutral if it was in gear) and make sure the linkage moves. Try reverse also. My guess is it's not moving, which could be shifter, cable, or the linkage inside the trans.
	Frank Swygert

TheGoodLife Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Fan Joined: Jun/18/2015 Location: Babylon, NY Status: Offline Points: 22	Post Options Post Reply Quote TheGoodLife Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 9:10am
	Thanks! When I push the button to go into gear it makes a loud noise almost like a vacuum hissing noise accompanied by a tinny rattle. I will take it apart and see what I could find. Thanks again

pacerman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9060	Post Options Post Reply Quote pacerman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 10:13am
	You can disconnect the shift cable from the shift lever at the transmission and manually check if the shift lever moves without the cable and clicks any of the detent postions. If so the problem might be with the cable either an adjustment of something broke or became disconnected as Frank mentions above. Also, there is a cable from the throttle linkage down to the transmission. This cable needs to be connected and adjusted correctly. If the clevis at the throttle linkage broke or became disonnected, reconnect it as best you can. You need this cable being activated with the throttle to control the pressure in the tranny. If it is loose, the tranny will slip or in extreme circumstances, seem to be not driving as you have described. If all is good there, see below. Put the rear of the car up on jack stands (securely) and chock the front wheels then start the engine with the car in nuetral or park. Then get under the car and shift the lever into all of the detents and see if the transmission responds with the engine idling only. Be careful. But this is what a mechanic might do with the car on a lift. Joe
	Happiness is making something out of nothing.

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19689	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 5:57am
	The TV cable should move in and out easily when gripped between thumb and one finger. If it take any more grip or effort than that it needs to be removed and freed up. Won't go into how to do that unless necessary. It pushes IN as the throttle is opened, so should be OUT when throttle is closed. The adjustment is to make sure the fast idle is off, then adjust the clevis to a "loose pin fit" -- pin easily slide in without pushing or pulling the cable. Then adjust the cable one turn long. You can go another turn, but more than 2- 2.5 turns and you'll find the trans shifting down early going up hills. I always ran mine 2 turns long for a bit better performance (holds second a little longer, kicks down a little faster). Joe has a point about connecting the cable without the clevis (broken clevis), but it would be short and not kick-down as it should or supply as much pressure. As long as it will go in some it's better than not connected though. With the cable not going in as throttle increases the trans will slip and burn up the drums and bands. Those seem to take the worst wear, but the clutches will "get it" too. Clutches and bands can be easily replaced, can't get a new drum! Joe's running engine test will let you know if it's the shifter (or shifter adjustment) or the trans. Adjustment is easy -- disconnect cable, then push the "L" button in. Swing the shift lever as far to the rear as it will go, then adjust cable length to fit the lever. After that check that the lever moves forward in the other positions. You might want to check it in reverse also -- the lever is in the far forward position, and should match cable. From forward to back it's R-N-D2-D1-L. In case you didn't know, D2 starts off in second gear, leading many to think they have a two speed trans. That is helpful on slippery surfaces (snow and ice especially) and a bit for economy on mostly level ground. To get a first gear start drive in D1 -- better for performance, and what most expect. It won't stay in first long, just up to 10-15 mph in normal driving, but will get the car going a bit quicker. Of course it will hold first a bit longer with your foot on the floor...
	Frank Swygert