1959 Ramble six custom. rear axle stripped splines

The only welding to the axle would be right at the end of the threads and welding the nut to the hub shouldn't affect the heat treating of the axle driving part. Do you think brass shim stock might grip better than stainless? I don't know if it would hold on a V-8 driven car but easy driving with the old six might be OK.

Might be more money than you want to put into it but what if you had new axles made like we do on our newer cars for racing thru Moser?

so after no luck im debating putting an AMC 20 under there. also ill be fabbing my own ladder bars and mounting hardware and stuff. 

Ummm.... no. You will need an American front yoke if you're keeping the 196. The yoke on the front of the TT shaft is short, not intended to slide in and out.

There's no reason to use an AMC 20 axle either. If you're going to leave the original six in, or even switch to a 232/258, 4.0L, or even a mild 304/stock 360 V-8, use an open drive AMC 15 (six cylinder Concord, Hornet, etc.). If you want a newer, more readily available rear axle the 7.5" early Ford Ranger axle is about the same width (pre 92). You can use a Ranger 8.8", but it's 1.5" wider than the pre 92 axle (all the Ranger 92+ axles are the same width -- 7.5" and 8.8"). For a cruiser you just don't need the extra weight of the AMC 20 or Ford 8.8". The AMC 15 and Ford 7.5" will hold up fine for normal and even occasional hard driving. If you plan on putting in a warmed up 360 and hammering on it a good bit you will definitely want the heavier axle, but otherwise it's not necessary. With a stock 360 the AMC 15/Ford 7.5" won't last as long as a heavier axle, but we're still talking over 100K miles. You're not going to go out and break it right away even with a hot 360  -- not unless the car hooks up really good and you're running cheater slicks anyway.

I CAN GET AN AMC 20 FOR THE SAME PRICE AS ANYTHING ELSE. thats why i want that one. i figured why not, right?