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1958 L6 stumbles on acceleration and at speed |
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tyrodtom 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2823 |
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 Posted: Dec/11/2009 at 1:21pm |
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The float could be sticking, and not going down with the fuel level in the carb. float bowl until the level is almost completely down, causing the engine to stumble. Then the float falls, allows the chamber to fill, car runs smooth, then the cycle repeats.
It has a pretty simple electrical system, not much could go wrong. But maybe the coil could be breaking down under heat, the condenser maybe, but I don't see such a short cycle. They couldn't cool off that much in just a few seconds. I just don't see that happening.
You have no separate intake manifold to get loose, not even a cap on the intake like the OHV 196. The only vacuum outlet I remember is at the carb base on the head.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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58AmericanSuper
AMC Fan 
Joined: Dec/09/2009 Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: Dec/11/2009 at 3:43pm |
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I have not replaced the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump.
I agree it should be replaced, I'll do it.
The only source for a vacuum leak that I can see is the carb mounting gasket. I've put on a new one.
The engine is a flat head. The intake is integral with the block.
Coil is new (last week). Just got the new distributor cap in and put it on. No improvement in performance.
To reiterate, the following items are new:
Cap
Rotor
Points
Condenser
Plugs
Plug Wires
Coil
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump
I filled the tank with premium and dropped a can of Methanol into the tank thinking that I may have gotten some water into the Gas tank from the last fill up. I just used premium as a desparate measure. I know the engine does not require it. Compression is only 8:1.
The idea that the float/ needle could be sticking is an excellent theory that warrants an investigation. I will order a kit to rebuild the carb.
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58Custom
AMC Apprentice 
Joined: Dec/05/2009 Location: Gardnerville, NV Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: Dec/11/2009 at 8:05pm |
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Have you replaced your points condenser and coil condenser (if equipped)?
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Greyhounds_AMX
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Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 27 |
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Posted: Dec/11/2009 at 10:49pm |
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My guess would be something in the fuel system as well. The float sticking or some trash in the needle and seat could do it. Onion peels in the gas tank? |
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Chris
1968 AMX 1970 Gremlin Kansas City |
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58AmericanSuper
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Joined: Dec/09/2009 Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2009 at 12:23pm |
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Well
I'm a little embarrased.
The problem was that when i installed the last set of points I did not set them properly.
I took it to an old mechanic friend of mine and asked him to install a new set of points. I should be able to do something this simple myself but....
When I drove the car up to his shop I noticed a u joint squeeking.
I don't have time to do this so I asked him to look into it for me.
Reading the manual I see that the rear axle needs to be removed in order to replace the joints.
Wonder if that old rear steel brake line will twist off when he preps to drop the rear?
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ramblinfsj
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: Lubbock, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1550 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2009 at 2:32pm |
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Well I got good news for you. You don't have to take the rear end loose to change the u-joint. All you have to do is disassemble the u-joint from under the car. It kinda stinks disassembling a u-joint laying on your back but it sure beats loosening up a rear axle. I've taken a u-joint apart under my 65 American and it wasn't to bad.
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1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220 1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401 1962 Rambler Classic 400 1973 DJ-5 Postal Jeep 1979 Concord DL 2dr 1975 Matador Wagon |
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58AmericanSuper
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Joined: Dec/09/2009 Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2009 at 3:16pm |
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The manual says the rear end needs to be removed from the car.
I think that this is true for all americans through 63' |
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ramblinfsj
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: Lubbock, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1550 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2009 at 3:43pm |
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The manual for the 65 said to do the same thing but Farna told me to skip all that none-sense and just disassemble the u-joint under the car. I worked fine. All I used was a c-clamp and a socket. All Americans have open drivelines so that procedure will apply to all Americans.
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1982 Jeep J-20
1965 Rambler American 220 1978 Jeep Cherokee w/401 1962 Rambler Classic 400 1973 DJ-5 Postal Jeep 1979 Concord DL 2dr 1975 Matador Wagon |
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FuzzFace2
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Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Connecticut Status: Online Points: 6372 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2009 at 8:18pm |
Dave ----
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75 GremlinX v8
76 GremlinX i6 (sons) 70 Javelin SST 390/4sp (360/5sp now) 70 Javelin 1/4 Drag car 360/auto |
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KermitDRambler
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Joined: Jul/06/2007 Location: Cincinnati, OH Status: Offline Points: 2269 |
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Posted: Dec/14/2009 at 8:49pm |
You may want to take a look at some of the places that reproduce steel brake and fuel lines to see what they have. I've used Inline Tube a couple of time (some off the shelf, some custom duplicated) and I've been very happy with their stuff.
Matt
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1967 American wagon
http://www.mattsoldcars.com |
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ramblinfsj wrote: