195.6 ohv performance engine build

Yes there is -- a spin on oil filter adapter. Mounts like an oil filter, goes between filter and base. They are made for most popular filters. Not as easy as the old 196 with the external lines already there though!

Few oil cooler setups run fans... I doubt yours will ever come on, but it might during hard, long rally runs on hot dry days.

OK i just went through my receipts for my 2010 engine build, and found that i had bought an oil pump kit, that includes that spring, from Kanter.com. it was NOT an old, used spring. it was a new replacement, and it lasted only 6, 7 years. not good.

Edited by tomj - Apr/28/2017 at 12:13am

There is a problem with using three carbs on the old 196 though. There are four ports to the cylinders inside the head. The end cylinders have there own port, the center four are siamesed -- share two ports twice the size of the ends. The ports are angled towards the ends of the engine (front two to front, rear two to rear). When using dual carb the bor of the carb is placed at the front edge of the front siamesed port, with about 1/3 of the bore past the front edge of that port -- rear is done the same way (but to rear of course!). Otherwise you have a fuels distribution problem. With three carbs you can't place the front and rear carbs close enough to get much fuel to those siamesed ports. You could grind down that front/rear edge of the siamesed ports to round it more, but not that much, and it would interrupt the great flow and fuel distribution that "trough" surprisingly has. So three carb just won't work well. Now I had thought at one time that you could use a large single or small 2V in the center and two small 1V carbs on hte ends, but that would have the center carb basically feeding four cylinders and the end carbs (lawnmower or small motorcycle carbs?) feedin one each. Would be a nightmare to properly size carbs and get them balanced!

~ 200 cu in at the low speeds this engine turns means it simply can't pump a lot of air. it's something like 250 cfm at 4000 rpm. carbs need velocity, to create vacuum, to generate the signal they need to work. its super easy to overcarb.

Thanks for that pic! Makes one more iteration of the water pump... at least six now! All but the aluminum engine body will interchange though (shafts different lengths), would just have to use a plug/cap to use that 65 pump on an earlier engine, T into the heater hose to use early on a 65. The AL block is a totally different pump, then there are two different shaft lengths, and at least two different heater hose outlets. It should be possible to press the hub back on a long shaft pump, but have to be very careful not to damage the impeller.

I think the bypass WOULD cool the oil a noticeable amount. If 75-80% of oil goes through for lubrication, it would have to cool a good deal. Not as much as full flow, but even if it only removes 50% of the heat compared to a full flow it should be enough to justify an oil cooler. There used to be finned aluminum heat sink covers for oil filters. Now THAT probably doesn't remove a significant amount of heat, but at least it prettys up the filter!