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195.6 ohv performance engine build |
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tomj 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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 Posted: Apr/23/2017 at 2:57pm |
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lol, math nerd. yeah, it's sometimes useful, huh?! :-)
yes, it's a dumb old engine. bearing area and diameter are fairly large, which is good mostly. and a lot of detailed attention went into crank rods and bearings, in fact most of the money went there. months of work on the bottom end. clearances are around .002" and the crank and block are STRAIGHT. yeah the 199/232 came about for good reason! |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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nickleone
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Joined: Oct/04/2008 Location: westminster co Status: Online Points: 1443 |
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Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 5:07pm |
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Tom,
Spin on oil cooler adaptor available from TRANS ADAPT. It sandwiches between the filter mount and the filter. You then need cooling lines and a cooler. There are various adaptor mostly based on filter base threads. Or you could read:http://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/ Nick Edited by nickleone - Apr/25/2017 at 5:15pm |
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nick
401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold 390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold 1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 6:03pm |
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Tom has a home brew full flow filter on his engine that uses lines to a standard remote filter mount. So all he need to do is put a cooler in the return line -- or rather have two new lines made to accommodate the cooler (filter body to cooler, cooler to block). I'd put the cooler in the return to block line, so it would be cooled after the filter.
http://worldpowersystems.com/AMC/195.6OHV/Oil%20pump%20mods/index.html That type of cooler adapter wouldn't work on the factory 196 filter either. Maybe the 65 model (one year only factory full-flow), but not the others. They use an industrial filter with an odd (for auto use) thread. Of course an adapter isn't needed -- it's an external filter with lines to it -- just plumb the cooler in the return line. I don't recall what filter the 65 only full-flow pump uses... probably the same as the 199/232?? |
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Frank Swygert
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 9:27pm |
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today i got my cooler, the Derale one i got before is too big to fit anywhere in the chassis. too bad as it's got obviously less flow restriction.
i got a B&M stacked plate and fin job from Summit. 9" square and a 6" SPAL fan and thermostat. it's more rugged than the Derale (which is tube and fin, 16 pass!!) and i got the hole duct and screen done, tomorrow i'll mount it. then get hoses made (PTFE lined SS braid). this is an expensive 195.6 ohv. i still wonder if it was a bad idea. too late now! lol. BTW, i have a 1965 195.6 ohv here, bought it as an allegedly running pull, but all the pushrods fell out, that can't be good. it's bright orange red, is that the factory color? it has some AMC metallic green under or overspray under the starter area. also, and this makes me groan, this 65 engine has the very same fix that i re-engineered for the head cooling issue -- the water pump has TWO external outlets -- one for the heater as usual, and another one on top that circulates coolant block-to-head, on the "upstream" side of the thermostat, eg. it circulates coolant when the thermostat is CLOSED. its on the very top of the pump, and the thermo pod on the head has a 3/4" nipple, and there's a two-inch length of heater hose between block and pump. unlike all other 195.6's. this is nothing but a good thing, for any engine. on my fancy-pants electronic cooling system, i added a separate small circulation pump (they're often used in modern cars for the heater) that does nothing but circulate water, block to head. though i no longer have htat old hot-head problem due to the electronic system, the circ pump makes the head temperature sensors (i run three of them) dead-nuts spot-on. i now get rock solid, 1 degree precision. |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676 |
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Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 5:59am |
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Now I'm going to have to look at the 65 TSM and see if it has that extra cooling line... if I remember next time I'm over at my shop.
Bright orange-red is probably Chevy color, or not quite that orange? The engine was originally that AMC turquoise. The pushrods falling out has to be sticking valves, like you had. Probably ran good until the valves stuck and pushrods started falling out, but you should have been told that, not sold a "running pull". I guess if it fired up an ran at all (rough off 3/4/5 cylinders!) it was "running"... at least not locked up. |
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Frank Swygert
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pacerman
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Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9057 |
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Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 9:09am |
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I think there were red 232's for CA in 1965. Joe
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Happiness is making something out of nothing.
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andyleonard
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Joined: Dec/10/2016 Location: 90290 Status: Offline Points: 138 |
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Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 11:14am |
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Re: oil heat. I read somewhere that you had experimented with higher oil pressure and also that you had extensive work done on your crank and rods. I am assuming you have gone to great care to check your crank/bearing tolerances. Can you confirm that your rod/crank side clearances are all good and that crank kerf has not been diddled? We had big oil temp trouble with a (non-AMC) race motor that was solved by opening up the side rod clearances at the expense of super-high oil pressures, allowing more oil flow out the sides carrying away heat.
I have no clue how the 196 was designed but by any measure anywhere, it's a tight motor with most clearances at .001.
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 11:43pm |
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i'll take pics in the daylight.
well, they *said* it ran.... lol... two guys with a bunch of junk in the back yard. probably seen that before. everything there was junk especially the stuff they thought was great. no obvious holes in the block. i wanted the chrome valve cover, never saw one before! even intact you cant know if the head is any good externally. i want the crank, less interested in pistons, rods. these engines are an adventure... |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 11:44pm |
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thats what i thought too, that one year was red... but these engines, you never know a damn thing! |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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tomj
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Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7544 |
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Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 11:56pm |
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the oil heating was both before and after the recent rebuild. more in the next post on the cooler. we need more data, would be nice if someone could use a handheld IR thermometer on the oil pan after a 20-mile highway run and see. it was a 75 hp engine in the 40s, up to 138 with the OHV and 2bbl at the end. its well known the OHV was to tide AMC over until they could make a new engine (the 199/232). but more measurements would tell us.
i'm not sure the 195.6 was designed, exactly. it was the 40's. the head, tacked on in '58, is terrible. seems like a lot of rule of thumb was in force. i did not do the work, a fairly well known race boat/big block engine builder, Pete Fleming, did. most definitely not a normal rebuild. the crank, rods, alignment, balance, should be close to perfect. clearances should be .002 (he says about .001 for every inch of diameter). |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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farna wrote: