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195.6 General information questions

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Mr_AMC View Drop Down
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    Posted: May/02/2017 at 4:08pm
I have really not played with one of these engines in 30 years, but I now have a low mile car and engine..
The owner has synthetic oil in it.. Wondering if that is a good idea? I do know that these engines have warm up temperature inequality issues..
Any other ideas/suggestions while I learn this engine all over again?
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2017 at 5:02pm
Many people say to torque the head every couple of years at 60 ft lbs, however nobody back then told me it needed to be done and I think I ran it about 50,000 miles without doing it. A 1/8" hole at the outer edge of the thermostat seems to be an accepted panacea for the circulation problem. I had pretty good luck with mine.

I don't know about the synthetic oil. Some say it will leak more. The rear crankshaft seal is a rope seal so I guess that could be understandable. 

Not engine related except that that power house could spin an axle hub if it is not on tight.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2017 at 6:07pm
I would maybe avoid synthetic and use a 15-40w diesel (non-synthetic) oil.
You'll have some heavy duty oil, and it should minimize leakage and consumption.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/02/2017 at 11:43pm
the consensus at the moment seems to be, check/retorque every year or two (AT LEAST! check is ASAP if you just got the car), that the bypass oil filtration is totally fine (just change it regularly and on time) and like vinny says, drill the hole in the thermostat and orient it up front. that should catch 99% of the inherent limitations of the engine.

the jury is out on synth oil. on an older car, i'd just run good quality -- Castrol or something -- mineral oil, with zinc (ZDDP). it's more money, $8/qt, but so what. oil's cheaper than engines. the flat tappest need zinc. 

i personally ran Mobil1 in a '70 232 for over 20 years with zero problems, but i did it from when i rebuilt it, and also, not insignificantly, i ran LPG fuel for 20 of those years. but i ignore the zinc issue, and though i didn't examine the tappets/cam in 20 years, it ran great, whatever that means. so the lack of zinc isn't THAT fatal.

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/03/2017 at 6:52am
There is enough zinc or other high pressure additive in modern oil for STOCK flat tappet cams with no worries. It's when you build an engine with high pressure valve springs (over 300# open) that you start to have problems. The 196 is nowhere near that. Got this info from a Warren Oil Company oil engineer.

Synthetic shouldn't be an issue. It's oil, designed to work like dino oil only lasts longer, and is more stable as far as viscosity. There are additives in dino oil to make it multi weight -- synthetic additives. The additives wear out over time, the oil itself doesn't wear out, just gets dirty. Some have had issues such as more leaking or use, but usually on engines that have been run a long time on dino oil. It's possible to have enough sludge build up behind seals to slow leaks. Synthetic has more detergent in it and cleans the inside of the engine better, doesn't sludge up much (if any). So cleaner inside can lead to more leaking on a well worn/good broke in engine. At least that's the most plausible (IMHO) theory. Looser clearances has an affect (as in design -- not just wear), but technically 30W oil is 30W -- no matter if synthetic or mineral (dino). So it shouldn't leak or burn more oil with a different formulation. Additives can be different in deifferent brands, so that may have some affect on an engine doing better with one brand than another, but I find that suspect. Shouldn't make a difference. As long as it has an API rating the oil should conform to that rating specifications.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr_AMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2017 at 12:12pm
I like the diesel oils... aren't they supposed to have more zinc also..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ramblinrev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2017 at 4:00pm
I believe they have more anti-oxidants, and most old car lovers don't drive their car everyday, so that's one of the reasons I use the HD Diesel oils.
74 Hornet Hatchback X twins (since 1977)
62 American Convertible (still worth the $50 I spent in 1973!) AMCRC #513, AMO #384
70 AMX 360 4-speed (since 1981)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2017 at 7:03am
Might not be zinc, but diesel oils do have to have more high pressure lubricants, so should be a bit safer. They are also usually thicker, 15-40 or so, but should be safe to use in older cars that were spec'd for 10-30. I might not want to run the thicker oil in a brand new engine in cold weather, but for summer it should be fine.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr_AMC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/01/2017 at 2:52pm
so???
160 degree or 180 degree thermostat???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/02/2017 at 6:03am
I have always run the stock 195 t-stat. 
Frank Swygert
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