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13" disc brakes for AMC's

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JERSEYJOE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JERSEYJOE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2013 at 2:58pm
Rich the guy who fabbed up the 12 inch brakes on my car made a spacer out of flat plate for the front. It is mounted between the spindle and the knuckle.  Loks like at least 1/4 inch.  on it the H/A calipers bolt.  They are 1.75 thick. on the rear he just welded a similar bracket to the D60.  I like your idea of using the big Mustang brakes.  Like someone said, getting big brakes without the Wilwood prices...
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prostreetamx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2013 at 9:45pm
I have already made the bolt on plates to mount the calipers to the spindle mounts. My plates will bolt on between the shortened drum spindle and the knuckle upright. The original caliper bracket might just be modified into a spacer or completely deleated. The issue is that the mounting plane of my new bracket and where the caliper needs to be mounted are not in line. I need a .45" thick spacer between my new bracket and caliper to make all this stuff line up. I discovered that I did buy 1, 1/2" i.d. shaft sleeve that is actually the thickness I need but it was supposed to one of 4, 7/16" sleeves I intended to purchase for mock ups. I will buy a few more of those sleeves if they are strong enough for this use. I do not want the calipers to rock on their mounts. I will probably start cutting up my KH discs after I get it all to work with the drum spindles since they are a little stronger. I'm still missing some of the drum specific parts such as the outer washer and the cup that the cotter key goes through to lock the spindle nut as well as the smaller dust caps. I will be looking for those items tonight since I need all these small parts before I can put them on my car. Fortunatly I do have an extra truck in case this takes a few days.
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote casper62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/17/2013 at 12:01am
you have MUCH better equipment to make FAR cleaner brackets than i did when i built mine. lol. those look GREAT! nice and clean, and professional looking. some day, when im cought up better on other projects, i need to rebuild my brackets. make them a little cleaner looking. cant wait to see how the finished project looks.
 
by the way, you have any plans to fab any kind of splash shield? i didnt do anything for mine. i dont seem to have any issues at all running without them. heck, there isnt anything on the outside, so the inside shouldnt be a problem right?
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prostreetamx View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/17/2013 at 8:46am
If id do run splash shields I will just use the ones already on my KH disc brakes and modify them to fit around the bigger calipers. You probably didn't have any since you only had your original drum setup. I have already converted from the original drums to my KH brakes so I have parts from both setups. Since you located your calipers to the back, like some of the modern cars, you might have to drill new mounting holes to rotate the covers to match your caliper locations. Some of these covers actually direct cooler air to the back of the disc since the outside already gets cooler air from being exposed to the air around the outside of the car. I have openings in my front air dam that I am thinking of directing to the back of each disc. Under normal street driving I doubt you will notice any difference and a dust shield that is simply a cover might actually trap more heat.
I was able to buy most of the small items that I am missing such as the spindle nuts and such but RockAuto does not list dust caps for AMC's so I had to order some based on diameter. All I'm missing now is the new lug studs.
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

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77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/19/2013 at 9:42pm


My new wheel finially arrived but I am still missing a few small parts such as wheel studs and dust caps to actually finish the install. I have one day off so I might just start anyway. I bought all new bolts and spindle hardware so I will see if I can get one started sat. I did put one assembly inside my new 17" wheel and as I suspected, without a spacer, the bigger caliper does rub the back of the wheel. I might be able to just add a 1/4" spacer, like the factory did on disc brake cars to clear the disc caliper with those small 14" wheels. The caliper only rubs at the front and there is plenty of clearance everywhere else. In the pic above I do have the 3/4" spacer installed. I think I can reduce this after I get them on the car. You will not be able to do this 13" brake conversion without 17" wheels. Mustang wheels do already have more clearance for the calipers than aftermarket muscle car offset wheels, but it is pretty close. The actual on-car mock-up will start tomorrow.
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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Scrapdaddy Sr. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scrapdaddy Sr. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2013 at 9:01am
Prostreet, looks like a different paint scheme than the last time I saw this cars progress. Did they re-do the paint or did you wind up doing it over yourself?
Looks really nice. I like the two tone color choice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2013 at 9:47am
The paint was really starting to get expensive and I didn't want any trace of my very expensive experiment paying someone else to do what I should have done myself. I switched to Eastwood paints and decided to 2-tone the car to make it easier to do touch-ups later. I wasn't able to save a single panel from the original single color paint job since there were so many flaws. I need to re-clear the car since I started color sanding it too soon and there are some sanding scratches in the clear coat. I decided to just drive it the way it is so I can finish all the other stuff. After I get the remaining custom touches finished, I will take it off the road for a few weeks and do some touch-ups and re-clear it.This car is now my daily driver and I've put over 8500 miles on it since Oct. I don't like my current front brakes since this car is normally traveling at highway speeds most of the time. A few months ago I drove this car to San Diego for work. It's about 350 miles one way and it made it without a single issue other than the crappy roads in California. I had to keep the front end aired up most of the time to keep from dragging the air-dam.

Edited by prostreetamx - Apr/20/2013 at 9:48am
Richard Payne

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77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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jcisworthy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jcisworthy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2013 at 2:53pm
Keep on sanding the clear with fine paper until the scratches are gone and buff. If you go through you are planning on re clearing anyway so why not try to avoid the work of painting it first. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GreggR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2013 at 5:35pm
..." made it without a single issue other than the crappy roads in California"...LOL

Too funny reading about sunny California's crappy roads living here in frost-heaved Ohio...

The roads in my neighborhood look like something out of downtown Bagdad...

I'll take crappy Cali roads any day...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prostreetamx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2013 at 8:26pm







Some guys will probably notice that my original idea of mounting the calipers in front at a 45 degree angle will not work. The calipers are too big to mount in that location and the upper caliper mounting hole is blocked by the spindle mount upright. I decided to mount them straight back where Ford mounted them on Mustangs. There is much more room there even with my shorter spindles. The original distance from the back of the upright to the bolt face on the disc spindles was 2-1/8". I removed 3/4" off the drum spindles and completely deleted the original caliper mounting bracket. Adding my 1/4" thick brackets and my newly shortened spindles removed 5/8" from this number. I wanted to make room for my possible need for the 3/4" wheel spacers but after bolting it all together, I will only need 1/4" spacers and just barely. I still don't have my longer wheel studs and I will need to buy some 1/4" spacers so this car will have to sit for a few days. My new wheels have a 4" back space so this all makes my wheels fit in the wheel opening just like I wanted. Any more spacing would have made my wheels stick out. They currently sit back 2" from the outside of the wheel well. It took most of the day to buy more 1/4" plate and make my new brackets but I should be able to do the other side much quicker. I got a 12"x 12" by 1/4" plate from Lowes. Buying it this way cost way more than the scrap price pieces I got earlier but that place is not open on weekends and much closer to work and not my house. That piece of plate steel cost $30, but still cheaper than a $1200 kit. I will be posting a final parts list and costs as soon as the car is back on the road and tested. No I will not be making brackets for other people but will happy to provide a template and measurements if anyone wants to duplicate this setup. I don't expect to get any more days off for the next 2 months, including weekends so I really don't have the time to fab brackets.
Richard Payne

Las Vegas,NV

72 5.7 Hemi Javelin

77 Prostreet 401/727 AMX,

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