1971-1974 Javelin Window Guide Bushings 

Read on for the repair info and history of the new part development, or skip ahead a few pages to get right to the new parts available.
http://theamcforum.com/forum/7174-jav-window-guide-bushings-no-more-wobble_topic37076_page9.html" rel="nofollow - http://theamcforum.com/forum/7174-jav-window-guide-bushings-no-more-wobble_topic37076_page9.html

I had wanted to do more of complete post/write up on this, but just hadn't had the time. After a couple of request I'm throwing out the basic info for those who'd like to try and improve their door window stability without waiting on me to make prettier instructions.

Now... you either can take the "easy way" and knock out the old bushing, destroying them in the process, or dismantle the window guide, pull out the window and guides to gently remove the old bushings. My old ones were either missing, shot or broking/crumbling already, so who cared if they came out in pieces.  In the simplest attempt, one needs to roll the window about 90% of the way down, and remove the door panel to get at the bushings.

So here's what I did on my windows once I got all the measurements down to a few thousands...

First I bought a 12"*12" sheet of .125" thick Acetal. It's similar to teflon, but rates harder and more ware resistant. It's veeeery slick stuff, same thickness but harder that OEM and faaaar tougher than the after market junk I bought, tried and scraped.

Next I cut blocks to size from the sheet, slightly beveled one end and drilled a "locking hole". The hole is roughly 1/8". The red edge farthest from the hole is the beveled edge. That edge needs just a hair taken off so the block can more easily be tapped in to place. Doesn't need much off, just the corners so it will go in without a big fight. The 1.6" is important for a perfect tight fit. The 1.8" inch is less important for accuracy. The hole placement doesn't need to be laser accurate either, but get it close as possible again for easier fit. You can make all identical pieces, no need for lefts and rights as long as the bevel is on the correct end.

What the bevel looks like...

Once the old ones are out of the way, time to tap in the new ones. Here's where you're going to find that 1.6" cut and accompanying bevel important with the install. On 3 doors I had, the clearance was 1.6" on the nose. I hope this is true of other years and doors. You may want to try and measure your own to be sure it's the same.

I pressed the block in just a tad against the guild pole, then put a small strip of wood on the top of the new bushing and tapped on the wood to set the bushing in place. You want the holes you drilled to line up with the slot in the metal brace where the old bushings were so the "lock pin" can be slid in and bent over at the ends. See the next set of pictures....

Ok,  last I'm going to take up the slack in the "donut bushing" with a method recommended by a couple of other members....  1/8" zip ties. Again the after market bushing was horribly made, softer than OEM and again scraped. Turned out it was better just to run one loop of a zip tie through the gap. (Two loops on this door since it was so worn) The donut bushing has 4 slots in it. Basically at the 12,3,6 and 9 oclock positions.  Fill one (or two) of these slots with a zip tie and the slop is gone. If your donut is still good and snug, bypass this part. You don't want the bushing too tight.

Now it's time for a bit of grease to make all this slide well. In my case, all the wobble was gone and the window still moved up and down very well. Wobble of the window was about 1/2"or better before I made these changes. After, it was barely measurable at maybe 1/16" of an inch.

Nice pics and info!

PS  I completed the hood frame replacement in November, I just haven't got around to posting the pics.

Thanks, and I look forward to seeing your other work. 

I could give you a hard time about not posting your pics sooner, but ya know... pot, kettle, black  :)

Oh man your milled bushing is awesome. Did you do that by hand or CNC? That window won't wobble again for the next 400 years! So when am I going to be able to buy a set of those? I just put my doors in primer this past weekend, but still not mounted and not too late to make some changes.

PlazinJavelin wrote: Oh man your milled bushing is awesome. Did you do that by hand or CNC? That window won't wobble again for the next 400 years! So when am I going to be able to buy a set of those? I just put my doors in primer this past weekend, but still not mounted and not too late to make some changes.

Dan and Jeff, keep an eye on this thread. If this works out I'll post the information here first.

Stylin'. Looks like it came of the line that way. 

I'd left mine with the box cut as cutting it further didn't seem to have any benefit on my set up. (ok, maybe I just got lazy). Now that I have power regulators, my setup is no longer like everyone else's though.

You went to the same supply I did. They seemed to have the best selection and price for small quantity hobby orders for guys like us.
http://www.iplasticsupply.com/shopping-cart/acetal-delrin-celcon-sheet/" rel="nofollow - http://www.iplasticsupply.com/shopping-cart/acetal-delrin-celcon-sheet/

FuzzFace2 wrote: Nice job guys now if that would work for us pre 71 guys. Where did you guys buy the Acetal? Thinking the rollers could be made of the same stuff if needed. Dave ----

My Jav currently has one 69 and one 70 door mounted. (Soon be be replaced with these 74's) I've not torn apart other year doors yet. What rollers are you refering to? When I pull the old doors I can have a look inside.

Ok... here we are. Pit Crew sent me his beta set of bushing and they are now installed.  Goodbye ugly zip tie. The window moves on the track a bit better as it more of a perfect fit instead of small bind given by the "well close enough I guess" zip ties. Compared to the worn out originals and the "you've got to be joking me" after market replacements being offered, these are a dream.

Thanks again P.C.  The vendors would have to be nuts not to stock these instead of that other junk. Yesterday I ran across one of the smaller guide pole bushings I'd bought. It's completely turned rubbery after a couple of months. You can bend it around like putty. I'd make pawning off any more of those things a crime in most states.

You can move on with your project now and not have to worry about the windows anyway

I thought so, but after seeing your window mounts all cleaned up and coated in black It's got me thinking ... hmmm. I'm going to have to call it good enough for now though. So many bigger things I've got to get done. 

And watch for another thread coming soon on the sound deadening material I used in the doors. Man, I thought the engine was going to be my biggest challenge. The effort and cost restoring the doors rival the engine. (that's with weather seals included).

and I am sure Troy will agree

I think you covered it all well. I'm always one for putting in improvements when possible and definitely in cases where you can still look stock but use newer tech.

I don't know what AMark uses for material, but the other vendor is using "bubble gum and plaster" for bushings (IMHO). Acetel parts in these new configurations have 4-5 times times the contact surface, better strength and better support than even the best original stock parts. So neh neh ne neh heh. :)

Is there such a thing?  

Back to 1982... the window on my 68 Javelin wobbled enough that it would pinch a nice little bruise if you had the window down, your arm resting on the door and hit a good enough bump. "don't put your arm there dope!" 

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