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Fixing bump steer on simple Mustang GT rack instal |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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No cutting and welding rack ends. The adapter spacers, may or may not need shaving (if threads are deep for the tie rod fitment), or cutting to shorten for welding after sectioning. The reason I have not bothered with such adapter spacers, is that the Ford rack for 98 to 04 uses some very weak tie rods at the pivots. There is no replacement tie rod that will fit on the rack ends. I have not looked into differences with Flamming River, Woodward and other rack systems and their tie rods. Mainly because of costs and my original mod was to be a basic Mustang rack install. It grew as i discovered hidden issues as digged further, which made for customizing tie rod setup. That matter I refrain from that discussion here (anyone can bring up discussion on my modding thread about what i have done), as the topic is about the adapters, and making sure pivot ends between the tie rods are as close as possible (distance wise) to the pivot points between the lower arms. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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Mopar_guy
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/07/2009 Location: Ohio Status: Offline Points: 4837 |
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In all the years I've been working on cars, I've never heard such a thing. I haven't heard anything in the hot rod world either with thousands of MII kits running around out there in much heavier cars and trucks than what you have. Where in the heck did you come up with that "information"??
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"Hemilina" My 1973, 5.7 Hemi swapped Javelin |
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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You missed my disassembly of the Mustang tie rod joint at the rack. One weakness is the nylon ball cup, and the other is the ball end is small. On the other end of the spectrum is Corvette and the Explorer tie rods I chose to use. Both are noticabley sturdier and have solid steel cups (no nylon) with larger ball ends. I'll dig out a photo and add later, from one of my threads showing that the Mustang tie rod is a multi piece ball assembly that can be taken apart, while all others are pressed fit ball and cup. Below is the comparison of components... i tossed the nylon cup, more like a beveled thick washer, that butted between the threaded flat plug and ball. The rack fitting was not cut or drilled to remove these components. Edited by 304-dude - Aug/24/2019 at 9:04pm |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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