looking for an 8cyl, or a strong straight 6...

I have a '69 American with 50K original miles, and i'll be pulling the 232/automatic for a V-8 conversion. I'm in Mn. so we would have to figure out how to get it shipped if you are interested.      Brian.

To put the 199 in that 65 Rambler, you need the 66-up crossmember for a 199-232-258 crossmember to make it work

I'm in NJ. I have a 304 that is a runner. It's a 1970 model engine. Flat flange crank. Will throw in a 4 barrel intake if you want it. Exhaust manifold tooo. It's on a stand now. I don't need it anymore.

Let me know. we could do cash 300? or some trade is good as well.

Sure, I'll post them today sometime.

First of all, no-lead gas isn't the problem some people still think it is. The 196 will run fine for decades on un-leaded -- I ran one for 14 years, averaging 5K miles a year on it (it was my go to work and hobby car for most of that time).

There is some accelerated wear on the valve seats and valve sealing face, especially the exhaust valves and seats. But it's only about 15-20% more. Look at it this way - if you normally expected to get 100K miles before a valve job using leaded gas, you'd get 80-85K with unleaded. Now you can usually go more than 100K between valve jobs even on unleaded, I just used the 100K figure for easy math.

The seat grinding will eventually mean the seats are recessed too far into the head, and of course grinding the seats on the valves will eventually make them too narrow. That takes 2-3 valve jobs unless there was some problem. When the seats get recessed THEN have valve seats installed. It's not real expensive to install seats now (mostly because aluminum heads use them, and lots of AL heads now), so it's not a bad idea if getting the head rebuilt, but it's not absolutely necessary.  As long as the seats and valves are still good after a grinding I'd run them until the next rebuild. For a hobby car that might be 30-50 years from now, depending on how much and how hard you drive.

The wear is more accelerated on an engine that is driven hard -- such as towing heavy loads (trucks) or racing. For that type engine I'd probably go ahead and have seat inserts installed.

As far as engines, you can fit almost any AMC engine under the hood of a 65-69 American. You need the crossmember from a 65-69 American or a 70-83 Hornet/Gremlin/Concord/Spirit with a six to mount the engine (or you can make spacers). You also need a 65 American water pump and pulley (65 only!) or a 72-83 CJ-5 pump and pulley (CJ-FIVE --- NOT CJ-7!! --- the CJ-5 has a shorter engine bay and wheelbase).  That's the hard parts to find! 

Unless you get a 1964-71 199 or 232 (71 only 258), you will also need a newer model transmission. The original 196 trans will only bolt to 71 and older engines. For a cruiser it will be okay, but don't drive it real hard. If you intend to really exploit and play with the extra power you will need a newer model trans anyway. Just get the driveshaft with the trans and have a custom shaft made. The original rear axle will stand up to even a small V-8, but retorque the axle nuts to 250 ft/lbs first. That's the weak link! The AMC 15 axle will take more abuse than people give it credit for once the nuts are torqued. I wouldn't use it for drag racing, but for cruising and occasional playing around it will last a long time. Just don't run tires wider than will fit the wheel wells and don't run cheater slicks and it will hold up.