Early AMX / Javelin Hydraulic Clutch Setup

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Hey greyhound. I am converting the Javelin from the automatic to a TKO600 5 speed and will be installing the concentric slave and a master cylinder mounted at about 45 degrees like yours is. How is yours working out for you? Anything you may want to add about your conversion that you learned after this post?

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
shootist Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023	Post Options Post Reply Quote shootist Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/02/2017 at 1:17pm
	Hey greyhound. I am converting the Javelin from the automatic to a TKO600 5 speed and will be installing the concentric slave and a master cylinder mounted at about 45 degrees like yours is. How is yours working out for you? Anything you may want to add about your conversion that you learned after this post?


Greyhounds_AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greyhounds_AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/02/2017 at 6:00pm
	Well life got ahead of me so I've been too busy to finish the project up. I'll be wrapping it up over the next 2 months or so though as cruise season is almost here.
	1968 AMX 390 w/T5

shootist Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023	Post Options Post Reply Quote shootist Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/05/2017 at 7:41pm
	Ok, well may have mine converted around the same time yours gets back out. I was wondering about your rod and more specifically the piece you made to go onto the pedal to accommodate the shorter stroke of a hydraulic setup. What is the stroke length on your master cylinder?


Greyhounds_AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greyhounds_AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/13/2017 at 1:04pm
	It's a Wilwood 260-11972. It's got a 13/16" bore and 1.4" stroke.
	1968 AMX 390 w/T5

shootist Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023	Post Options Post Reply Quote shootist Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Apr/15/2017 at 11:16am
	Thanks for the info. I will check the one coming in my kit.


Greyhounds_AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greyhounds_AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/27/2017 at 9:49am
	Well for those of you with the patience to keep watching my progress on this I have some more pictures to post. The headers are done and exhaust is all welded up and in place, so now I can finish the trans conversion. With the column out I figured this is the best time to address the brake light switch and clutch switch. For the clutch switch I just bought another brake like switch and fabbed up a little bracket to hold it in place. Granted, it would trigger without fully depressing the pedal so it's not perfect, but it's something. When starting a car most people are either going to fully depress the clutch or forget to touch it at all, and that's the one's we want to protect against. The switch worked best when placed at a pretty good angle: I also had to relocate the brake light switch more to the passenger side a little bit as the location used for the auto pedal wouldn't work any more. I ended up adding a little tab to the brake pedal for the switch to hit on. It's just a little chunk of angle with a hole drilled in it and cinched down under the bolt in the brake pedal. I put a bunch of divets in the back side of it with a center punch so it would tend to grip when tightened down. Now I can get them wired up and get the column back in. After that I'll finish up the slave cylinder and post the details of how that all works out.
	1968 AMX 390 w/T5

shootist Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023	Post Options Post Reply Quote shootist Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/27/2017 at 10:14am
	Awesome job Chris. It looks a whole bunch better then my setup but I am at least fully functional. I do need to put in a switch on the clutch since the car will only start out of gear currently. Which for a safety standpoint that is just fine but It would be pretty cool to actually get it working so that the car will start when in neutral or with the clutch depressed.


Greyhounds_AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greyhounds_AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/27/2017 at 12:29pm
	It would be nice to be able to start in neutral without pressing the clutch, but for now I'm just running with the simple old clutch switch. From what I've read the T5 has a neutral sensor that changes resistance when you move to neutral, and my plan is to eventually work up a little circuit to detect that and trigger a solid state relay.
	1968 AMX 390 w/T5

shootist Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: May/24/2012 Location: Triad, NC Status: Offline Points: 1023	Post Options Post Reply Quote shootist Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/28/2017 at 1:18pm
	I have no experience with the T5 neutral safety switch but for my 1970 Javelin (previously an automatic) it uses a simple opened/closed circuit design. So, all I should need to do is wire the both the clutch switch and neutral safety switch (in the TKO) in parallel. That way should the car be in neutral or clutch depressed it will complete the circuit and allow the car to start.It took me a minute to think that through but that is because I wanted to make it more complex than it really was. I have a knack for that.


Greyhounds_AMX Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/14/2009 Location: Kansas City Status: Offline Points: 1268	Post Options Post Reply Quote Greyhounds_AMX Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Aug/28/2017 at 6:12pm
	I did a little more looking around and people say the T5 and TKO neutral switch are the same. Evidently it's only rated for low current and provided a signal to the ecm. You might need a relay on it for it to last if that's the case.
	1968 AMX 390 w/T5