Are stainless brake lines worth the extra expense?

So I am doing some brake maintanence on the AMX. In 2006 I had replaced all the hardware in the drum assemblies, shoes, adjusters, springs, wheel cylinders, pins, and new parking brake cables front to back. At that time I had also replaced the rubber brake lines to the front brakes. Brakes worked awesome after that for 3 years until I took the car off the road and just been in the garage since moving it when needed out into the driveway and back to the garage etc etc.   I hadnt replaced the master cylinder at that time because I had replaced it approx 5 years prior..so 2001 ish'.   That seems to have failed this summer, and I have a new one on order(not a reman, but new).

So the hard brake lines from the master cylinder to the front brakes have been replaced before like 15 years ago, still look great on the outside, but they are bent with a tubing bender, not very accurate but good enough. But thinking now might be the time to get a pre bent sent from in-line tube, and do all the hardlines over. The long line along the passenger side under the car to the rear brakes had been replaced in 1988! by the Local AMC dealer and it still looks very good, no rust at all just dull metal look.

It still has the original rubber lines on the rear axle.

While I am replacing the lines in the engine bay I plan on detailing the distribution block because it was painted black when the car was repainted black in the early 80's, so it should be preserved quite nicely under the paint. I'll just remove it and get the original finish back. Is it oK to take it apart and check the "pistons" in there??

And is it overkill to get stainless lines?

Hard to seal stainless lines is true.  I had to go back a few times to re-tighten them.  That was 4 years ago and they are holding good, look good and I don't have to worry about rust.

Clear coating the steel lines works good, I have stainless and got lucky They all sealed first time. Silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid does not absorb moisture. So the moisture stays separated from the fluid, settles in low spots in the lines and starts rust inside the lines. Change Your dot 3 or 4 fluid when it gets brown or every other year to avoid inside rust. It's that simple.

Used stainless lines from Fine Lines on the Rogue.  Small amount of liquid teflon as recommended on the fittings during install.  Eight years old, look good still and no leaks.

usually the problems with stainless comes down to the double flaring process that a person uses.  its not soft like copper and is not malleable.  you need to have a de-burring tool for the inside of the tube, in order to correctly de-burr AND resize the tip that you are going to double flare.  the inside of the tube needs to be beveled correctly for the flaring tool to do its job correctly.