You guys are providing lots on mind candy and now that I am on a computer instead of a cell phone I can make better sense of it. I appreciate it.  

Edited by 1982AMCConcord - Apr/17/2019 at 7:02am

farna wrote: Chris (Greyhounds_AMX), looks like you're using the factory resistor for the low speed. I like the idea of the self-resetting circuit breaker instead of a fuse. Marine is an even better idea since it's mounted low. I'm sure you know this, but there are self-resetting circuit breakers in the auto parts stores along with the fuses, just put them in a protected area. Just to be clear, the yellow wires will be connected to the temp sensor, and that black wire with the round connector is ground, correct? I like your setup better than what I'm currently running... might change it if I have any issues. Yours is a much neater installation. I would just need to get a lower radiator hose mount for the sensor and do a little re-wiring. I'm using a pair of adjustable controllers with probes inserted in the radiator. I push the probes in between the core fins. They come with a mount that sort of lays them against the back of the radiator with a small (1/16" or so) gap between radiator and probe. I found that to vary too much with weather, and stuck it in the core instead. I've seen them shrink wrapped to a radiator hose as well. Since they are adjustable mounting the probe is flexible. I think mine is a Flex-A-Lite as they were at a local parts store (and cost more!), but similar to these only just two connectors for the fan (click on only). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E52MERK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01E52MERK&pd_rd_w=jBW17&pf_rd_p=46cdcfa7-b302-4268-b799-8f7d8cb5008b&pd_rd_wg=Lrci1&pf_rd_r=P69ZGEC1J8B0DEM7KP21&pd_rd_r=dc6bec9c-6102-11e9-a6d1-89beb44619b8 Cheap, and have held up since 2003 for me. At least one has, used it with Taurus fan, bought another in 2016 when I went to dual fans due to thicker radiator -- not enough clearance for the Taurus fan any more (http://theamcforum.com/forum/fsj-jeep-radiator-in-rambler_topic76414.html - pics of Taurus and aftermarket fans on AMC radiators). As I mentioned, just wired for high speed, staggered temps. One comes on ~190 (just as T-stat is starting to open), other ~200. I'm using a pair of 40A relays, was just using a single 40A with the Taurus fan. I have read that the Taurus fan pulls as much as an 80A surge when starting, but never had an issue with the 40A relay. I initially ran a used factory 30A, it finally failed after about 5 years use. It was pulled from the wreck I got my initial 4.0L from, a 88 Comanche with over 100K miles on it, so the relay was well used.

Mopar_guy wrote: Greyhounds_AMX wrote: People may want argue with me about it, but the correct place to monitor the coolant temp is at the outlet of the engine. That's going to be the engine temp, which is the variable we're trying to control with this control "system". So you want to do the temp sensing at the water neck outlet or upper radiator hose. This is the standard concept used for aftermarket engine controllers, factory engine controls, etc. A good example of what I'm talking about - on the instructions for the controller you pointed out they state that the capillary tube installs in the radiator inlet. Yep, you're correct. I've not seen an OEM system do that so why would anyone else? It doesn't make sense to me but to each their own. That video is laughable to me. If he would of put a good set of fans on that 3 row it would be fine. That extra row of tubes does so little that it's not worth having. Those Champion radiators are pretty descent and I don't remember what HP they're rated for. Those cheap fans make more noise than they move air. The Contour fans are probably 50% more efficient than those he put on.

Yeah, the 3 row is very restrictive in air flow. Dont know if the coolent flow would be as well since i have no clue to the total area consumed.

My 2 row 1" tube Eagle which some may think is Champion in ordering, has very narrow fin spacing, which surprised me, and are easy to scuff.

I have to do some cosmetic repairs from rubs when unpacking and all the attempts in fitting in my constrained working area. Normally i would have plenty of room to work, without having to contort or work side ways.

One thing i stressed in my install thread, is to seal properly. Some fan shrouds fail to seal along the top and bottom tank seams.

Also free air movement through unsealed passages, thus bypassing the core when air is pulled.

I use neoprene rubber seal strip when gaps are present. You can get a roll of it in 1/4" square and larger.

When making a decision to where to place temp switches, look at factory methods over ease of placement. Most factory locations are near the head water exit port, or on the thermostat housing.

Also not all fans are created equal. The more efficiant blades look similar to turbine blade shapes. Proper wiring for at temp current under load.

The current will increase when fans are worked in high temp conditions. The hotter the conditions the more demands for current.

One way to measure if your wiring is not up to par, is to measure the voltage at the fan power connector, while engine is running, so alternator is giving charge voltage. If the voltage is below the charge voltage measured at the battery, then you need to increase the gauge for your power distribution. There should always be enough current capabilty not to allow voltage sag at the load.

What happens is premature damage to the motor or controler / relay assembly.

One thing to note... the shorter the distance from relay or controler to the motors, the more stable at allowing fans to operate optimaly.

Phitown Hustler wrote: I had problems keeping a 30 over 500 HP 401 with a loose converter cool with a very nice 2 row Aluminum and dual fans. Temp would climb to 200 in traffic with a 160 stat even with manual bypass fans at full blast. I bought the cheap Champion 3 row hooked it all back up and now is in the 180 range while driving. BTW, I also run dual isolated trans oil coolers. Aluminum radiators need alot of air to shed heat at idle speeds

Edited by 1982AMCConcord - Apr/18/2019 at 8:02am