198X AMC eagle sx/4

Oh I know exactly what you mean on the brakes!! I learned that the hard way with my stratus last year. I had just finished showing off my new speedy car to the guys out here in the middle of nowhere, yes i was well over 100 (young and stupid blah i already know dont worry, i grew up quick from that)Parked it, got back in a half hour later and the lines had burst and I had no breaks whatsoever, not even the e-brake. Good thing It didn't fail while I was pushing 120 mph. Then I made the 35 mile drive home very worry carefully, I also live in the middle of no where so I just took the back roads. Anyway a few months later my bald tires didn't do so well on a turn (I swear I wasn't even ping fast for this turn.), I hit a telephone poll, head on, AIRBORNE, snapped it off about 6 feet up. Broken ankle and a swollen face from the faulty airbag. I was goin about 40-45. A surgery and 3 months of crutches and I'm good :).

Anyway, I have an I6 not the little dinky 4 from the looks of it. It looks exactly the same as the engine in one of my bosses other amc's, a wagon, no idea what it is though but it's an auto. I love these amc's... Every single one (even the pacer!!) hahaha. Brakes first so I can tow it home haha.

I'll have to see exactly what engine I have and then report back, I don't want to spend $450 as someone said for a new master cylinder for the clutch... Is that gonna be my best option? In the long run I mean. I honestly would rather swap to a 5spd and then isn't there going to be another clutch system that won't have these problems? Also someone said a Borg Warner t-5 was a bolt in replacement, but someone else seemed to imply I need one specifically for my eagle? So I can't just buy one of the number of ones on eBay right now? I need to be more specific than just any Borg Warner t-5? Thanks for the help guys. I think I'll braking a lot of questions soon haha.

Like Bill said, if something goes bad after 30 years it's not "a problem" -- it's NORMAL!! Like the brakes. Rubber seals fail at some point in time, and will dry out from lack of use quicker than they will fail from use. That thing sat how long???

You can mount an XJ Cherokee (you might not have even known there was a big Cherokee... and I don't mean the Grand Cherokee, the original one!) clutch master cylinder. Those are cheaper. I use www.rockauto.com to check parts prices all the time -- realize that local stores will be about 10% higher, but minimum shipping charges are around $7, and goes up with parts weight. So you might be able to buy local for the same price or even a little cheaper once you add shipping charges. But it's a good site for estimating costs -- don't know of a better on-line catalog. They list the 1983 clutch master cylinder at $57 or $65 (two different brands). But there is a repair kit listed for $13. If the housing is good and the bore isn't pitted (and it's a 13/16" diameter) the repair kit is all you need. Apparently the had a 3/4" bore master in some, that one is available but says "only one remaining". The slave cylinder (on the clutch arm) is only $15. The 84 XJ Cherokee MC ranges from $24-$63 for new ones. Take a look at the pic though (maybe you can Bill?), it may not fit in the space allowed in an Eagle. I think the Eagle used a remote reservoir, the XJ doesn't. Might just be for convenience though.  All I've seen average around $40. Hopefully you can use the repair kit, it comes with a new pistons with seals installed. The seals are usually what fails, especially from sitting a long time.

farna wrote: Like Bill said, if something goes bad after 30 years it's not "a problem" -- it's NORMAL!! Like the brakes. Rubber seals fail at some point in time, and will dry out from lack of use quicker than they will fail from use. That thing sat how long??? Take a look at the pic though (maybe you can Bill?), it may not fit in the space allowed in an Eagle. I think the Eagle used a remote reservoir, the XJ doesn't. Might just be for convenience though.  All I've seen average around $40. Hopefully you can use the repair kit, it comes with a new pistons with seals installed. The seals are usually what fails, especially from sitting a long time.

Frank brings up a good point - and I hate to say it, the remote thing isn't for convenience - did you note the picture I posted of using the flare-nut crows-foot on an extension to get to the line fitting?
There's no space for anything other than the stock type master cylinder on the Eagle.

I'll also touch on Carnuck's post - most Eagles did not have a lid to have any print on it because their "reservoir" is simply a tube sticking up with a plug at the top. There's only the actual plastic reservoir on a few Eagles. The reservoir with cap is rather rare.

I didn't care for the tube, so I found one of the plastic reservoirs on a junked EK, made the steel line to get down to the master and made a bracket to mount the reservoir. The brackets rod to heck due to the fluid contact. The originals were covered with a material sort of like the handles you see on pliers, etc. and the fluid got between the coating and the metal and drew moisture and rotted the brackets. The firewalls on many Eagles also rotted due to brake fluid and clutch fluid contact.
 The tube will be more reliable than the reservoir, less hassle, take less space, etc. but it's how I'm wired - I just could not do it. The tube holds plenty of fluid as you are only moving a single small piston, unlike brakes that NEED a larger reservoir. Mine has never needed fluid in the 4 years I've driven it (and yes, I have flushed it, and I flushed the brake system a couple of weeks back.)

Once in a while you can find the NOS or original type master cylinders and slave cylinders on eBay. They were made by Girling in England. (this is where the term "Girling grease" comes from - it was a lube put out by the English Girling company for use with brakes. I suppose only people my own age or OLDER will have ever heard of that product or the company)
Keep in mind, the specifics of the Eagle were developed in England...... the concept was AMC.
I have a NOS slave and a RockAuto master on my car and keep my eyes open for spares "just in case" and there's even a thought of someday having this stuff around to help others when they can't find the parts.
Fluid? I simply use a GOOD quality brake fluid, I do use synthetic, but they all will behave the same as far as moisture except for the silicon types and I just won't use them in a clutch. All one needs to do is follow the FACTORY recommendations and every 2 years totally flush the brake and clutch hydraulics, putting in new fluid and getting the old out of the system. Very simple on the clutch as the bleeder is simple to reach.
They used to say annually, but the current recommendation is every 2 years.

>>Rubber seals fail at some point in time, and will dry out from lack of use quicker than they will fail from use. That thing sat how long???<<

He hit a biggie here - SITTING is the worst possible thing for brakes and clutch hydraulics (except in the case of brakes, a hard panic stop and overheating is really bad, but sitting kills the hydraulic system in a big way.
Sitting for say 2 years and then USING the hydraulics without flushing almost ensures failure.


Edited by billd - May/14/2012 at 8:03am

billd wrote: farna wrote: Like Bill said, if something goes bad after 30 years it's not "a problem" -- it's NORMAL!! Like the brakes. Rubber seals fail at some point in time, and will dry out from lack of use quicker than they will fail from use. That thing sat how long??? Take a look at the pic though (maybe you can Bill?), it may not fit in the space allowed in an Eagle. I think the Eagle used a remote reservoir, the XJ doesn't. Might just be for convenience though.  All I've seen average around $40. Hopefully you can use the repair kit, it comes with a new pistons with seals installed. The seals are usually what fails, especially from sitting a long time. Frank brings up a good point - and I hate to say it, the remote thing isn't for convenience - did you note the picture I posted of using the flare-nut crows-foot on an extension to get to the line fitting? There's no space for anything other than the stock type master cylinder on the Eagle. I'll also touch on Carnuck's post - most Eagles did not have a lid to have any print on it because their "reservoir" is simply a tube sticking up with a plug at the top. There's only the actual plastic reservoir on a few Eagles. The reservoir with cap is rather rare. I didn't care for the tube, so I found one of the plastic reservoirs on a junked EK, made the steel line to get down to the master and made a bracket to mount the reservoir. The brackets rod to heck due to the fluid contact. The originals were covered with a material sort of like the handles you see on pliers, etc. and the fluid got between the coating and the metal and drew moisture and rotted the brackets. The firewalls on many Eagles also rotted due to brake fluid and clutch fluid contact.  The tube will be more reliable than the reservoir, less hassle, take less space, etc. but it's how I'm wired - I just could not do it. The tube holds plenty of fluid as you are only moving a single small piston, unlike brakes that NEED a larger reservoir. Mine has never needed fluid in the 4 years I've driven it (and yes, I have flushed it, and I flushed the brake system a couple of weeks back.) Once in a while you can find the NOS or original type master cylinders and slave cylinders on eBay. They were made by Girling in England. (this is where the term "Girling grease" comes from - it was a lube put out by the English Girling company for use with brakes. I suppose only people my own age or OLDER will have ever heard of that product or the company) Keep in mind, the specifics of the Eagle were developed in England...... the concept was AMC. I have a NOS slave and a RockAuto master on my car and keep my eyes open for spares "just in case" and there's even a thought of someday having this stuff around to help others when they can't find the parts. Fluid? I simply use a GOOD quality brake fluid, I do use synthetic, but they all will behave the same as far as moisture except for the silicon types and I just won't use them in a clutch. All one needs to do is follow the FACTORY recommendations and every 2 years totally flush the brake and clutch hydraulics, putting in new fluid and getting the old out of the system. Very simple on the clutch as the bleeder is simple to reach. They used to say annually, but the current recommendation is every 2 years. >>Rubber seals fail at some point in time, and will dry out from lack of use quicker than they will fail from use. That thing sat how long???<< He hit a biggie here - SITTING is the worst possible thing for brakes and clutch hydraulics (except in the case of brakes, a hard panic stop and overheating is really bad, but sitting kills the hydraulic system in a big way. Sitting for say 2 years and then USING the hydraulics without flushing almost ensures failure.

Girling grease is AKA rubber grease IIRC. I use that stuff still when building brake or clutch hydraulics.