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Project Odin Electrical Overhaul (1973 Javelin)

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billd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/17/2018 at 9:40pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

I am surprised billd did not state a comment about the fuses in your diagram. He is a stickler for details. Never use a fuse greater than 10% of the total load of the system. It protects more than the wiring and load itself.

I'd put a 135AMP fuse between the battery for charge and run a 60Amp fuse for stock wiring on a two or more terminal fuse block with what ever separate fuses are needed for other loads you may add above the factory options, like an audio amp and stereo.

A 150 amp alternator is not perfect. There is wasted current in its operation. On average a 150 amp alternator will produce about 135 Amos at best, and above normally used engine RPMs.

Your stock wiring cannot handle more than 60 amps total through it.

Now peeps may say what are you doing with 150 Amps? Well the only reason you should is if you need higher than stock current at lower RPM use. The current ramp changes drastically for high amp alternators.

The main difference between stock 35 amp vs a 55 amp one, is that you get more usable current at idle or just above idle, for police and severe duty use.

Yes it is nice to have a more simple and trouble free charging system, by upgrading to modern designs. But no system that can drop in is going to be 100% more reliable than stock.

The key with stock is the connections between battery, alternator and regulator. The old style connections are more open to the environment than newer modern types. Thus trouble spots that need cleaned and properly maintained time to time.

At the time of purchase, my 73 Javelin, back in 84 had only 10 years of daily use, but did not have its original regulator and alternator. After a few troubles with charging, i found that the alternator connections at the harness were easily contaminated and caused premature corrosion. Once corrected, i never had an issue. Just not so obvious as everything seemed simple enough, yet moisture and driving environment can do so much even in California where it ran 95% of its life.


I skimmed - ADHD - didn't read word-for-word............ 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeeperJolene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/18/2018 at 12:12am
Okay, so I need to trace this back to the pink wire splice and splice the yellow from the HEI into that. With all of these splices running through the ignition switch and with how brittle the wiring is, I'm wondering if it's better to do some more rewiring now instead of later. Especially now that I know the HEI was wired incorrectly.

Instead of running the juice through the ignition switch, would it instead be better to have the ignition switch run position activate a relay, which would then distribute power to the HEI, original fuse block ignition feed, starter solenoid, etc. via a small junction box?

Also, since this isn't using points coil anymore, is a resistance wire even necessary at this point?


Edited by JeeperJolene - Feb/18/2018 at 12:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/18/2018 at 9:13am
Originally posted by JeeperJolene JeeperJolene wrote:

Okay, so I need to trace this back to the pink wire splice and splice the yellow from the HEI into that. With all of these splices running through the ignition switch and with how brittle the wiring is, I'm wondering if it's better to do some more rewiring now instead of later. Especially now that I know the HEI was wired incorrectly.
You can use the stock wiring to operate a relay that would feed the HEI straight from the battery. I have used this option on several cars to operate electric chokes and HEI ignitions. It leaves the orginal wiring intact in case someone ever wants to set is all back to bone stock.

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeeperJolene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/18/2018 at 7:12pm
I would agree with you, but it seems a lot of the stock wiring has been damaged from heat or overload. Most of the factory splices are weak (at least the ones I've found so far) and the factory fuse board is toast.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6768rogues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/18/2018 at 7:52pm
So far I have done 3 cars with Painless harnesses, model 10101. They have the GM style steering column connector. I put the fuse block where the stock fuse panel was and go from there. It is not hard but takes some time. Everything works perfectly the first time and I have used them for over 15 years without any problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/18/2018 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by JeeperJolene JeeperJolene wrote:

Okay, so I need to trace this back to the pink wire splice and splice the yellow from the HEI into that. With all of these splices running through the ignition switch and with how brittle the wiring is, I'm wondering if it's better to do some more rewiring now instead of later. Especially now that I know the HEI was wired incorrectly.

Instead of running the juice through the ignition switch, would it instead be better to have the ignition switch run position activate a relay, which would then distribute power to the HEI, original fuse block ignition feed, starter solenoid, etc. via a small junction box?

Also, since this isn't using points coil anymore, is a resistance wire even necessary at this point?


I would consider a relay to power the HEI - that way the ignition feed wouldn't carry hardly any load at all. 
The resistance wire isn't necessary with HEI - and with your mods especially. |

But if you pull a lot of the stock stuff out as far as wiring please save it - you'd be amazed at the stuff I have used from old wiring harnesses I've been lucky enough to obtain. I hate to see any of it tossed as I salvage a lot of stuff from them. 

Interesting enough, if I were to ever have that car in the future, if somehow I ended up with it, I'd be doing the exact opposite - putting things back.......... I like simple. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeeperJolene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/18/2018 at 10:42pm
I like simple too, but I also like safe. If you want the fried wiring harnesses then you're free to take them, but there is a reason why almost none of the electrical system works. Pretty much only the ignition stuff works and some things will light on fire if you try to turn them on, including the AC/heater.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeeperJolene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2018 at 7:27pm
I spent the day at the junkyard on Monday and scored two fuse boxes (and one relay box) out of early 90's XJs and one out of a 2001 XJ (spare for mine)!



It's all cleaned up and I'm going to get to work planning the wiring of it. Matt form BleepinJeep actually has an awesome video with this exact fuse block, although I won't be following exactly what he has.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeeperJolene Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/23/2018 at 7:50pm
Okay, so I did some tracing and this system has been pretty butchered from the original wiring.

Here's what it appears to be now:



Here's step one with the new internally-regulated alternator:



I'm seeing the following connected to the ignition feed:

  • Starter Solenoid
  • Distributor
  • Throttle Closing Solenoid
  • Starter Relay
  • Guage Cluster
  • Headlight Buzzer (to instrument cluster)
  • Alternator bulb (goes to orange alternator wire) - Jumps to the brake light, which grounds to the ignition switch and the brake failure warning light switch
I think the diagram above may be for a 74 because it has the seatbelt interlock system, but I don't have all of the wires for that.


Edited by JeeperJolene - Feb/24/2018 at 1:23am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vinny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/24/2018 at 8:54am
A GM CS130 as supplied on an 89 Pontiac Safari will probably be almost a bolt in alternator replacement. It comes with a V pulley whereas newer versions come with a Serpentine pulley. You would need to cut the back of the base down from 2" to 1" or modify your bracket. It would be nice if there was a P/N out there somewhere that the alternator base has been cut back as a Motorola replacement. 










 


Edited by vinny - Feb/24/2018 at 9:24am
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