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Project Odin Electrical Overhaul (1973 Javelin) |
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JeeperJolene
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/11/2018 Location: The Big Globe Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Posted: Feb/11/2018 at 6:20pm |
So I recently purchased a 1973 Javelin with a 360 (two barrel carburetor) and A727 transmission. I learned that the majority of the wiring is shot and attempting to use anything electrical inside the car is a no-go...unless I like a campfire car. I'm used to working on vehicles between the years of 1989 and 2015, so this is my first run at a classic.
I plan on replacing the Motorola alternator with a Powermaster three-wire setup and replacing all of the old switches and voltage regulator with new relays. What I would like to do is get a weather-resistant power distribution block, with fuses and relays, and rewire the entire car to a more "modern" setup under the hood and out of the cabin. I haven't even looked at the OEM fuse panel yet, but I can't imagine I'm going to like what I find. I'd like to relay the following: Starter Fuel pump (don't need it right now, but I'd like to be prepared in case I switch to an electric pump) Horn Electric fans (I plan on a dual-fan setup with a Griffin radiator once I rebuild the engine) Air conditioner Heater blower motor Wiper motor Cigar lighter/accessory Headlights Taillights There's probably something that I'm forgetting. Virtually everything is going to get fused. I was looking at either grabbing an XJ fuse block out of the junkyard or getting something like an Eaton Series 15400 RFRM fuse box, but I'm having trouble finding a product that would be for this type of application. I was hoping for something that has both relays and fuses in the same box so that I don't clutter up the engine bay. Has anyone else done something like this? Does anyone have any advice?
Edited by JeeperJolene - Feb/21/2018 at 7:50pm |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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When I put the 4.0 into my Eagle I used the Jeep's PDC - and love it. I run the fog lights, AC and other things through it. Not only is there less going through and into the cabin, but the switches inside will last a lot longer.
Be aware, as you likely are anyway, if your new alternator is of a higher output rating, you'll need to up-size the wiring as the original was sized for the potential most output from the stock alternator. An AC car it likely had a 62 amp or similar (which frankly is PLENTY for a non-EFI car even with a few upgrades) if you go higher than about 60 amps be sure to definitely up-size the wiring. - with electric fans you are off-loading the fan load to the alternator so you will need more output. Relay the starter? In a sense it already is - that thing on the fender is a starter relay although we call it a solenoid. You want a relay to feed that starter relay? That's ok, but just wanting to clarify. You might look into a Jeep PDC like I used, which is from a ZJ, or something similar. Interesting enough due to the load of the horns, there wasn't a relay in the PDC for horns, that was a distinct relay elsewhere.
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304-dude
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Some have used pre-made harnesses for the setup you plan on. Pain-less for example.
I would obtain a 73 or a 74 TSM, as they are easily obtainable in manual or PDF form. It will help on how the wires are done to the car. The earlier 70s AMC car's wiring are simple, so unless you really need to use bunch of relays, which can make a rats nest of extra wires... i would do the head light relay upgrade and properly fuse the alternator in case of sort out. Heck, I am modding my 71 with a police type alternator, which produces 3x the current at idle of most factory pre 90s alternators on domestics. I don't see any major change outside of blower fan motor relay for high speed, instead of the resistor being in line. So with both issues as stated just two relays and a good factory wired setup, with a minor mod for alternator hookup. Billd is our electrical system master with most all AMC years, and recently obtained a 73 Javelin, which he can relate and explain further on strenthening the electrical weaknesses. |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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LOL - right, dude, on the 73 - the wiring is a disaster and is being replaced and upgraded as I get to it. Hard, hacked, cracked, what a mess. In the end, I will rebuilt it, Better than it was before. Better, stronger, faster.............
I basically did with my SX4 what the OP is proposing where with the Javelin. I married the original Eagle technology and wiring with the Jeep's upgrades. The result - my headlight switch should last longer than I do, the AC switch and stat will last forever as all it does is trigger the computer which triggers a relay so no heavy power goes inside. The fog lights run through the PDC relay and fuse, and I'm switching to LED bulbs. I rewired the power locks and power windows to run through relays like later AMC/JEEP did (in prep for remote lock/keyless entry) I agree, the whole AMC wiring system is bloody SIMPLE. Even the charging system is extremely simple. It's misunderstood and assumed to be complex but it's VERY simple and basic as far as wiring. |
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JeeperJolene
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/11/2018 Location: The Big Globe Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Yup, that's why I figure I can knock this job out myself and reduce/consolidate/cleanup to reduce higher amps traveling into the cabin as much as possible.
I know there's an existing solenoid, but I was hoping to kill all of the older bigger relays/regulators/solenoids and drop them all into a more modern box. Maybe it's unnecessary, but I get anal when it comes to electrical. The new alternator will be a 150 Amp, so my plan was to upgrade the following cables: Battery to starter (+): 1 AWG Battery to PDC junction (+): 4 AWG Alternator to PDC junction (+): 4 AWG Engine block to battery (-): 1 AWG Battery to ground (-): 4 AWG
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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My PDC and headlight relays (they were not in the PDC so had to add those)
I pretty much gutted my Eagle and had ALL wiring fully removed at one point - the 73 Javelin is next.
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JeeperJolene
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/11/2018 Location: The Big Globe Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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That's nice and neat! My Javelin looks like this right now:
I'm basically going to do the same thing I did with the XJ in regards to the battery and alternator, but much neater: |
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JeeperJolene
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/11/2018 Location: The Big Globe Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Okay, so I took a first stab at trying to figure out the new ignition wiring. Here's my plan:
1) Replace the Motorola alternator with a 150 amp Powermaster one-wire and kill the external voltage regulator 2) Replace the cruddy old battery with an Odyssey AGM (I run these in all of my cars) 3) Replace the starter motor with a Powermaster that has the solenoid on it 4) Install a new fuse block and connect the alternator and battery to the fuse block, fusing both connections to the posts 5) Fuse the connection from the battery to the starter 6) Run the ignition key power fused from the new fuse block, then connect the start position to the starter solenoid Here's the dirty diagram I drew (I didn't include the ground wires in the drawing) This doesn't include anything other than the ignition and charging system. The PO installed an HEI ignition so I was going to redo the wiring so that the hot wire runs to the starter solenoid and not straight to the battery like it is now. I'm sure I missed or messed up a whole bunch of stuff. I overcompensated with wiring and fuse ratings because I figured it's better to be safe than sorry. Any advice?
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billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Why not run a properly wired alternator instead of the so-called "one wire" things?
I'd run a decent GM alternator and wire it correctly with all three wires. Output (as always) Sense (and run it to the load area) Field excitation (typically the dash ALT light with a parallel diode or resistor in case the bulb fails) A little research here will find dozens of posts outlining why the so-called "one wire" or "single wire" alternators aren't the best solution, but are basically a shortcut for those who don't get into details. If you are making "upgrades", the "one wire" sure isn't that........ they are meant for rodders who hate wires and don't care. More of a "bragging rights" "I got rid of some wires" thing. Marketing gimmick meant for street rods, etc. I have posted links to other sites explaining why to do it right and not use those things. |
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JeeperJolene
AMC Apprentice Joined: Feb/11/2018 Location: The Big Globe Status: Offline Points: 66 |
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Do you have recommendations on what you would consider a decent GM alternator? Keep in mind that I'm still looking for an internally-regulated alternator. Also I'd like to avoid fabricating a new alternator mount if possible.
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